Big Levels

On the Blue Ridge in Augusta County, Virginia

May, 2001 updated Dec., 2004

Introduction

The Big Levels plateau rises somewhat over a thousand feet (300 m) above the alluvial fans at its base. The dominant rocks are Lower Cambrian Antietam quartzites and sandstones and Hampton Formation, consisting of siltstone, subgraywacke and qurtzose sandstone (Werner, 1966; Rader and Evans, 1993), The quartzites, which are most conspicuous, are dense, gray in color, coarsely crystalline and massively bedded. Consequently they are highly resistant to both chemical weathering and erosion. In most places bedrock is covered by coarse regolith derived from it and ranging in element size from silt to large quartzite blocks. Despite its resistant nature, the Antietam was eroded through the millennia by streams and deposited as alluvial fans, which ring the plateau on the northwest, north and northeast (Kochel and Simmons, 1986). These geological features illustrate the differences between the western Blue Ridge, in which they occur, and the eastern Blue Ridge, which is comprised of far older Pre-Cambrian rocks with more complex lithologies that gave rise to richer soils and support more diverse floras. The nature of the flora and certain aspects of the fauna associated with the alluvial fans are discussed in our section on Maple Flats.

Stony Run Jeep Trail to Big Levels

Source Walk: 10-30-94

Stony Run descends almost directly north from the Big Levels Plateau, and the jeep trail ascends a spur a little to the east. The entire route, which contains eight switchbacks, is in part over Antietam sandstones and in part over Hampton rocks, apparently of similar nature. Soils are very stony and quite sandy. Only two springs were seen along the nearly four mile (6.4 km) route to the top. On this day the weather was warm, mostly clear and pleasant, Katydids called and ants were very active. We saw few birds, including a few Juncos (Junco hyemalis ) and a single woodpecker, likely a Hairy (Picoiodes villosus).

Elevation at Coal Road, the start of our ascent, is ~1900 feet (580 m) asl, and the canopy consisted of Chestnut and Scarlet Oaks (Quercus prinus and Q. coccinea), Pitch Pine (Pinus rigida), Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica), Sassafras (Sassafras albidum), Red Maple (Acer rubrum ), Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) and Virginia Pine (Pinus virginiana), while American Chestnut (Castanea dentata) sprouts and Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) formed an understory of sorts.

Noted initially along the trail were Upland Low Blueberry (Vaccinium pallidum), Trailing Arbutus (Epigaea repens), common Bracken Fern (Pteridium aquilinum), clumps of Crinkly Hairgrass (Deschampsia flexuosa ), Stiff Aster (Aster linariifolius) and Moonbeam (Coreopsis verticillata). Soon we also began to see Bear Oak (Quercus ilicifolia ) and dead pines, possibly killed by the Southern Pine Beetle (Dendroctonus frontalis).

After the first right turn in the trail we saw serviceberry, likely Downy (Amelanchier arborea) under a canopy as first described, and along the trail Pasture Rose (Rosa carolina) with large red fruits as well as an unidentified goldenrod (Solidago sp). After a sharp right turn, the first Black Oak (Quercus velutina) was noted. Then after a sharp left turn at near 2100 feet (640 m) asl, we encountered the- likely-Hairy Woodpecker and a few clumps of Spotted Wintergreen (Chimaphila maculata ). An unidentified species of the moss genus Leucobryum occupied the trail bank, while a dung beetle, also of unknown species, was occupied with horse dung on the trail itself.

Now, at another left turn at ~2200 feet (727 m) asl, there was a small drainage with water, and nearby several Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra) and some blackberries (Rubus sp) of unknown species. Here also was Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregrina) and Wiry Ground Cedar (Lycopodium tristachyum ). This clubmoss, so characteristic of dry acid habitats, became more frequent above this level. The canopy here was still dominated by Chestnut Oak, with Pitch and Virginia Pines, and now also with Table Mountain Pine (Pinus pungens). We also began to see the widely spaced multiple sprouts of Chestnut Oak that are characteristic of fire-killed trees.

As our climb continued, patches of haircap moss (Polytrichum sp) began to appear, as did an unidentified legume, possibly the non-native Hairy Vetch (Vicia villosa). After a turn to the right at ~2400 feet (730 m) asl, the forest became very scrubby, with many of the multiple-sprout Chestnut Oaks. Wiry Ground Cedar appeared to increase as well, and a little higher an unusual butterfly was seen resting on a trail rock.

Now at ~ 2480 feet (756 m) asl, and after a sharp right turn, Pitch Pine with a Mountain Laurel understory dominated, there was abundant Wiry ground Cedar, and an unidentified dung beetle was again seen near horse manure in the trail.

After a sharp left turn we encountered our first Minnie-bush (Menziesia pilosa ), a seedling of Canada Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), Black Birch (Betula lenta) and Catawba Rhododendron (Rhododendron catawbiense )-one of each. Somewhat higher the Mountain Laurel assumed a particularly lush appearance and was accompanied by more Minnie-bush. Here also there were the weathered remains of an iris of unknown species. Upland low Blueberry, Trailing Arbutus, Bracken Fern (the only fern) and Wiry Ground Cedar continued to be abundant along the trail, and these were now joined by Black Huckleberry (Gaylussacia baccata).

After a sharp right at ~2650 feet (800 m) asl and conspicuous Catawba Rhododendron, we noted a Cladina lichen of an unidentified species and a number of very large (~ 2 meter diameter) ant hills that were populated by ants with a red thorax and a black abdomen. It seems likely that the hills were so large as a consequence of the high rock content of the soil. More of these large ant hills were seen after another sharp left turn at ~2840 feet (870 m) asl.

After a sharp right at 2920 feet (890 m) asl, there was a conspicuously stunted forest of Chestnut Oak, Pitch Pine, Black Gum, Mountain Laurel and Black Huckleberry. Thus far Trailing Arbutus had been common, but there had been no sign of its frequent associate, Teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens), However here this plant suddenly put in an appearance in association with Catawba Rhododendron.

As we topped out at approximately 3100 feet (950 m) asl, there was an explosion of Teaberry, and Catawba Rhododendron became more abundant as well. Now moving along an almost flat path, the surrounding oak forest exhibited a ground cover of almost continuous Teaberry, while Trailing Arbutus and Wiry ground Cedar appeared to have dropped out. Farther on we encountered a few White Pine (Pinus strobus) and seedlings of Hemlock, with the latter showing no sign of the Hemlock Woolly Adelgid (Adelges tsugae) that has destroyed so many Hemlock in the Appalachians. It is noteworthy that this site lies only a few hundred feet in elevation above the Hemlock stands of the adjacent Johns Run, stands which has been devastated by this insect. Here also katydids were heard calling.

Continuing over the gently sloping Big Levels, we encountered a single bush of Black Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), and a little farther on the first specimen of the Appalachian endemic shrub Mountain Fetterbush (Pieris floribunda), and here a minor component with Mountain Laurel. Also, in this essentially ericaceous Chestnut Oak forest with Black Gum, Catawba Rhododendron remained important in association with Laurel, and Teaberry, with very large and abundant berries, formed virtually the only ground flora.

Wiry Ground Hemlock and Trailing Arbutus were also minor components in this forest, and we here saw our first Deerberry (Vaccinium stamineum), with possible Upland Low Blueberry. The latter still had berries, somewhat glaucous and desiccated, but sweet. Since these berries appear to have ripened late in the season and were glaucous, they may represent the closely related Late Low Blueberry (Vaccinium vacillans ). However it appears that the two species (or varieties!) may also be gradational into each other (Strausbaugh and Core, 1977). Additionally, American Chestnut sprouts and Pitch Pine were quite common, and there were scattered White Pine and healthy-appearing small Hemlock.

We had now reached the spring which forms the head of John's Run, and which was considerably degraded by the jeep trail. However, both Rhododendron and Laurel were relatively luxuriant here, and a little beyond the spring we saw our first Tree Clubmoss (Lycopodium obscurum).

Continuing up-trail, Bear Oak, Black Gum and Trailing Arbutus became more common, a Raven (Corvus corax) was heard calling, and a large gray-brown cricket was observed feeding on a katydid.

It should be mentioned that the unidentified serviceberry mentioned earlier, and/or perhaps other species of the genus, were observed scattered throughout the area traversed in small numbers at all elevations.

As we retraced our steps to Coal Road we added Little Bluestem (Andropogon scoparius) and Virginia Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana) to our tally of plants. Also bats of unidentified species were observed over the road.

Bald Mountain Trail to Green Pond

The Bald Mountain Trail begins near the Bald mountain overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway approximately 5 airline miles (8 km) SE of the Stony Run crossing of Coal Road that appears in the previous section. From there it leads north roughly 4 trail miles (6.4 km) to Green Pond, which lies immediately east of the head of St. Marys River. Elevations along the route are well above 3000 feet (915 m), with bald mountain at 3568 feet (1088 m) asl. Green Pond lies at near 3200 feet (976 m) asl. Bedrock along the route is at first Hampton Formation, then Antietam Formation. Green Pond is developed in a gravelly, loamy sand residuum several meters in depth, which overlies the quartzite, and the pond is really a sphagnum bog underlain by several feet of peat (Whittecar and Lawerence, 1999). The water level of Green Pond varies greatly and the Pond generally lacks standing water in dry periods.

Source Walk: 10-13-91

The xeric and ericaceous nature of the forest along the route was immediately apparent. Oaks noted were Chestnut, Scarlet, Black, Northern Red and White. These were accompanied by Red Maple, Black Gum and Pitch and Table Mountain Pines. Understory and shrub layers included Striped Maple (Acer pensylvanicum), an unidentified serviceberry (Amelanchier sp), Catawba Rhododendron, Mountain Laurel, Minnie-bush, Black Huckleberry and a little Red Elderberry (Sambucus pubens). In few places there is also richer and more mesic forest in which American Basswood (Tilia americana) was observed.

On arrival at Green Pond we noted that it consisted largely of a sedge meadow with Sphagnum between the sedges. The surrounding forest in the immediate vicinity of the sedge meadow was dominated by Pitch Pine, with various oaks and Red Maple and edged by rhododendron (likely Catawba Rhododendron), huckleberry (likely Black Huckleberry). Black Chokeberry, Mountain Laurel and a greenbrier (likely Common Greenbrier / Smilax rotundifolia ).

The forest surrounding the Pond had one of the heaviest growths of Teaberry ever seen by this reporter, and this plant formed an almost continuous ground cover. Also, this plant was very abundant in this part of the Plateau quite generally.

The entire area of the Plateau was also heavily impacted by the Gypsy Moth (Lymantria dispar), and there were numerous egg masses on the tree trunks.

Source walk: 10-17-93

First noted on our traverse was the large number of Gypsy Moth -killed oaks. However there appear to have been few Moths the past season, since many oaks still had undamaged leaves and the trees appear to be recovering. Interestingly, its bright leaf colors at this time allowed a more accurate than usual estimate of the abundance of Black Gum in this forest. The land surface along the route was characterized by relatively sterile-appearing, rocky, rubble-covered terrain in which Antietam, or Antietam type quartzite blocks have a prominent role.

Noted along the trail were the following asters: Big-leaf Aster (Aster macrophyllus), Mountain Aster (Aster acuminatus), Blue Wood Aster (Aster cordifolius), Purple-stem Aster (Aster puniceus), Hairy Aster (Aster pilosus) and Smooth Aster (Aster laevis). It is of interest that none of these were observed at Maple Flats (see our section on the latter). Other species successively tallied were Tree Clubmoss (Lycopodium obscurum), Wild Sarsaparilla (Aralia nudicaulis), Mountain Holly (Ilex montana), possible Upright Yellow Wood Sorrel (Oxalis stricta), Yellow False Foxglove (Aureolaria flava), Starry Campion (Silene stellata) in bloom, Woodland Sunflower (Helianthus strumosus), Hairy-jointed Meadow Parsnip (Thaspium barbinode), an unidentified ricegrass (Oryzopsis sp), Scarlet Oak, Indian Tobacco (Lobelia inflata), an unidentified muhly grass (Muhlenbergia sp), an unidentified hairgrass (Deschampsia sp) and the shrubby Orangegrass (Hypericum gentianoides). Mountain Aster is a northern species usually confined to cold habitats in the Appalachians.

A Wood Frog (Rana sylvatica }was also seen along the route.

Arriving at Green Pond, we found it again to lack standing water. Prominent, in addition to the shrubs identified on our 10-13-91 visit, was Button Bush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), which, however grew farther toward the Pond center, as it is more aquatic than the other shrubs. Also observed was the concentration of Black Chokeberry, Button Bush, blueberry (species unidentified) and huckleberry (species unidentified) on the Ponds north side, and Catawba Rhododendron on the south side. Other plants identified were Three-way Sedge (Dulichium arundinaceum) and Marsh St. Johns-wort (Hypericum virginicum or Triadenum virginicum). According to the Virginia Natural Heritage Program, Green Pond is the only Virginia station for the rare sedge Carex aquitilis, and this plant is said to be the dominant graminoid at the Pond. However, it was missed by us.

A plant of some interest on the Pond's south side was Large Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon ), which in this case, however, had been planted (Hanrenkrat, 1980). Nonetheless, it seemed to be thriving in the open sedge meadow, in the shade of the trees at the Pond edge, and had numerous large ripe berries on this day.

Fauna observed in the vicinity of the Pond included a beautiful American Toad (Bufo americanus) and a large falcon, Likely a Peregrine (Falco peregrinus), that flew directly over the Pond.

John's Run

Source Walk: 7-3-94

John's Run descends, almost directly north, from the Big Levels Plateau, in a deep ravine just east of Stony Run. Most of the John's Run mainstem and the adjacent slopes are underlain by Hampton Formation (Werner, 1966) and there are many fewer seeps and wetlands than there are along Kennedy Creek.

The first part of the traverse was through dry, acidic forest except immediately next to the stream. The dry upland forest had a canopy of Chestnut, Scarlet, Black and some Northern Red Oak, as well as Black Gum, Sassafras, Red maple and Pitch Pine. Undergrowth included Mountain Laurel, Black Huckleberry, Maple-leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium), Deer Berry and low blueberry, likely upland Low (Vaccinium pallidum), which was beginning to form fruit.

Near the stream were Tuliptree (Liriodendron tulipifera), Black Birch, Minnie-bush, Maleberry (Lyonia ligustrina), Fringe Tree (Chionanthus virginicus), Smooth Alder (Alnus serrulata), Wild Raisin (Viburnum cassinoides ), Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) and Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida ).

Herbs characteristic of the dry forest were Greater Tickseed (Coreopsis major) and Moonbeam, both in full bloom, Goat's Rue (Tephrosia virginiana), Trailing Arbutus, Teaberry, an unidentified iris, Rattlesnake Weed (Hieracium venosum), a creeping five-leaf (Potentilla sp), Wild Indigo (Baptisia tinctoria), Long-leaf Summer Bluet (Houstonia longifolia), Stiff Aster (Aster linariifolius), Yellow Stargrass (Hypoxis hirsuta), Bracken Fern (Pteridium aquilinum ), Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens) and White Wood Aster (Aster divaricatus).

Progressing up-stream, the forest became more mesic and perhaps less acidic, although Partridge Berry remained common everywhere. Farther up-stream, at perhaps 2000 feet (600 m) asl, small patches of Sphagnum moss appeared, and there were scattered Wild Sarsaparilla and Mountain Aster, indicators of a cool climate. At about 2500 feet (760 m) asl these species were among the ground flora dominants. Of interest also was the presence, beginning at low elevations, in seepy areas, of the rare herb Swamp Pink (Helonias bullata ), identified from the character of its leaves.

Above 2000 feet asl Northern Red Oak increased greatly in numbers, and small Hemlock that had lost most of their foliage to the Adelgid were conspicuous. Present also, were some very large Tuliptrees and the first Yellow Birch (Betula alleghaniensis) was noted, while Black Birch became more common. Also noted were Black Locust, American Chestnut sprouts, Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) and an unidentified serviceberry. Catawba Rhododendron also put in an appearance but was not prominent. Vigorous Common Greenbrier, Spice Bush (Lindera benzoin) and Cinnamon Fern appeared in moist areas, where Sphagnum moss became more common. Indian Cucumber-root (Medeola virginiana) also appeared to increase with elevation. New York Fern (Thelypteris noveboracensis) was the dominant ground cover in many places here, as it also had been at lower elevations, and Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) marked richer soil areas. Common Speedwell (Veronica officinalis ) also occurred but was not as widespread as Partridge Berry. Also observed in and along the trail were a chanterelle (Cantharellus sp) mushroom, the leaf rosette of the Pink Ladyslipper (Cypripedium acaule), four-leaved Yam (Dioscorea quaternata), Cow Wheat (Melampyrum lineare) and an unidentified violet. Also seen were a few seedlings of White Ash (Fraxinus americana), but not a trace of American Beech (Fagus grandifolia) or Sugar maple (Acer saccharum).

Farther up-valley we came upon a single Butternut (Juglans cinerea), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), Dutchman's Pipe Vine (Aristlochia macrophyllus), May Apple (Podophyllum peltatum), and Plume Lily (Smilacina racemosa).

At near 2400 feet (732 m) the first Striped Maple was seen, and Round-leaf Violet (Viola rotundifolia) was common under Hemlock and near the stream. Spotted Wintergreen (Chimaphila maculata) was also part of the upland ground flora. There was also a non-blooming and hence unidentified member of the lily family, perhaps a species of the genus Uvularia or Polygonatum.

Birds seen and / or heard here included Scarlet Tanager (Piranga olivacea), Wood Thrush (Hylocichla mustelina) and Pileated Woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus).

As the stream's headwater region was approached at ~ 2600 feet (790 m), Striped Maple, Wild Sarsaparilla and especially Mountain Aster became more common. There was old growth forest here dominated by Hemlock, now almost defoliated by the Adelgid, Northern Red Oak, Black and Yellow Birches and Tuliptree. Striped Maple, Mountain Holly, Catawba Rhododendron and Witch Hazel formed an undergrowth, while the ground flora consisted of Partridge Berry, Mountain Aster, Indian Cucumber-root, Round-leaf Violet and Intermediate Shield Fern (Dryopteris intermedia).

On our return trip some additional species noted in the upland forest were Wood Betony (Pedicularis canadensis), Bear Oak and evidence of Blackjack Oak (Quercus marilandica) in the form of leaves with the diagnostic form.

Acknowledgements

Particular credit is due to Dr. Robert Hunsucker for his identification of a number of the plants encountered in these inventories. Also, the participation of Steve Krichbaum and Mike Jones in the inventories is greatly appreciated. As always we greatly appreciate the faithful financial assistance of Patagonia Corp. and our fiscal sponsor Save America's Forests.

References

Hanrenkrat, F. (1980) Mystery Bog: The origin of this quaking bog remains an enigma. Virginia Wildlife, 11; 16-17.

Kochel, R. Craig and David W. Simmons (1986) Quaternary Alluvial Fans in Central Virginia, pp 123-126, in The Quaternary of Virginia, a Symposium Volume, J. N. McDonald and S. O. birds, editors. Dept. of Mines, Minerals and Energy, Virginia Dept. of Mineral Resources, Charlottesville, Virginia.

Rader, E. K. and N. H. Evans, editors (1993) Geologic Map of Virginia, expanded explanation. Virginia Div. of Mineral Resources, Charlottesville, Va.

Strausbaugh, P. D. and E. L. Core (1977) Flora of West Virginia, 2nd edition. Seneca books Inc, Grantsville, West Virginia

Werner, H. J. (1966) Geology of the Vesuvius Quadrangle Virginia, Report of Investigations 7. Virginia Division of mineral resources, Charlottesville, Virginia.

Whittecar, G. Richard and James R. Lawrence (1999) Hydrology and Geomorphology of Green Pond- a High-elevation Depressional Wetland in the Blue ridge of Virginia. Banisteria 13, 149-159.

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