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Our
ascent began at about 2000 feet (610 meters) asl from State Route
688 in the saddle between Crawford and Great North Mountains and was
toward the Northeast. Consequently the dominant aspect was
Southwest.
The
forest at the saddle shows the effect of aspect in that the SW
facing slope of Crawford Mountain bore dry ericaceous growth, while
that on the North Mountain side was notably more mesic. The former
was dominated by Chestnut Oak (Quercus prinus ), with
lesser amounts of Northern Red, Scarlet, Black and White Oaks (
Quercus rubra, Q. coccinea, Q. velutina and Q.
alba), Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica), Red Maple (Acer
rubrum), Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), Pignut
Hickories (Carya glabra and/ or C. ovalis ), Pitch
and White Pines (Pinus rigida and P. strobus).
Sassafras (Sassafras albidum), Downy Serviceberry (
Amelanchier arborea) and Striped Maple (Acer
pensylvanicum) formed an understory, and the shrub layer
consisted of Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia), Deerberry
(Vaccinium stamineum) in fruit, and Upland Low Blueberry (
Vaccinium pallidum). Few herbs except Spotted Wintergreen (
Chimaphila maculata) and a little Teaberry (Gaultheria
procumbens) penetrate the heavy leaf mat, but bare patches of
soil along the trail supported a greater variety.
Herbs
encountered while climbing along the trail in approximate sequence
below 3200 feet (976 m) asl were Silverrod (Solidago bicolor
), Southern Bellflower (Campanula divaricata), Grass -
leaved Blazingstar (Liatris graminifolia), Bracken Fern (
Pteridium aquilinum), Wild Indigo (Baptisia tinctoria
), Stiff Aster (Aster linariifolius), Common Creeping
Cinquefoil (Potentilla simplex/canadensis), bush clover (
Lespedeza sp), a vetch, Birdsfoot Violet (Viola pedata
), introduced Mouse - ear Hawkweed (Hieracium pilosella),
Dittany (Cunila origanoides), American Pennyroyal (
Hedeoma pulegioides ), avens ( Geum sp), Round -
leaved Tick - trefoil (Desmodium rotundifolium ), Cliff
Stonecrop (Sedum glaucophyllum), Nodding Wild Onion (
Allium cernuum), Common Speedwell (Veronica
officinalis) and a little Hog Peanut (Amphicarpa bracteata).
A
little above the saddle, at the start of our ascent, we encountered
a beautiful Copperhead (Agkistrodon contortrix), blending
in so well among the oak leaves as to be scarcely visible at first.
Characteristically for this species, it displayed little aggression,
and after attempting a photograph, we continued our climb. The
Appalachian naturalist George Constantz (!994), in a chapter
titled " Copperheads' Year," stresses that though
poisonous, these snakes pose little threat, but particularly favor
slopes exposed to the sun, such as this one, on which they gather
peaceably to go into hibernation in October.
At
about 3200 (976 m) feet elevation the trail reaches a gently -
sloping bench and the vegetation, despite the southwest aspect,
becomes considerably more mesic. Black Locust and Striped Maple
increase and Black Birch (Betula lenta), White Ash (
Fraxinus americana), Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana
) and hawthorn (Crataegus sp) as well as the vines
Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and Poison
Ivy (Rhus radicans) make their first appearances. The herb
layer also is enhanced by Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa
), Tall Agrimony (Agrimonia gryposepala), Thimbleweed (
Anemone virginiana ),an unidentified Heuchera,
an Indian plantain (Cacalia sp), sedges, Trail Rush (
Jucus tenuis), Bottlebrush Grass ( Elymus hystrix )
and even Lamb's Quarters (Chenopodium album ), a familiar
of fertile gardens. Accompanying them is a dogwood, probably
Panicled (Cornus racemosa), and here much browsed by White
- tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus ).
Upward
from this bench the first basswood (Tilia sp), a few
Canada Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), Black Cherry (Prunus
serotina) and a single Slippery Elm (Ulmus rubra)
were encountered. The basswood, from its leaves, appeared to be
White Basswood (Tilia heterophylla), or a form near this
species. These trees were accompanied by Staghorn Sumac (Rhus
typhina ) and a dogwood here definitely identified as
Panicled from its drupes and other characteristics. In one place
tall unidentified grasses extended beneath small oaks. However,
many trees in the area were up to 30 inches (0.75 m) dbh and,
taking into account growing conditions, perhaps 100 years or more in
age.
Still
higher, pignut, Northern Red Oak (some very large), Hophornbeam
and Striped Maple all increased in frequency, mostly at the expense
of Chestnut Oak. White Snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum)
became common and there were some sturdy clumps of Hoary Mountain
Mint (Pycnanthemum incanum). Chestnut oak appeared to drop
out between 3400 feet (1040 m) and 3500 feet (1070 m) asl, but
large White Oak and a few Black Oak continued to accompany the
Northern Red Oak.
Near
the summit, between 3600 feet (1100 m) and 3700 feet (1140 m)
asl, Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum) and Butternut (Juglans
cinerea) put in appearances, and the latter, although
elsewhere almost inevitably diseased by Canker Dieback (Melanconis
juglandis), appeared to be quite healthy at this location, and
some individuals seemed free of disease. Other common summit species
were Northern Red Oak, White Ash, pignut, White Basswood, Striped
Maple and Hophornbeam, while Black Birch was concentrated on
adjacent, rocky slopes. Hawthorn of unidentified species, as well as
large shrubs of Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) were
common, and there was Panicled as well as Alternate - leaf Dogwood (
Cornus alternifolia) and Choke Cherry (Prunus
virginiana). The latter is almost confined to high elevations
or cold valleys in the Central Appalachians, and in the Valley and
Ridge it usually ornaments isolated peaks.
Further
evidence of the mesic character and comparatively fertile soil of
this summit is the presence of Coral Berry (Symphoricarpos
orbiculatus), a small shrub more characteristic of limestone
valleys. And, although not rich or diverse, the herb layer include
such species as Black Cohosh, Four - leaved Yam (Dioscorea
quaternata), Mountain Meadowrue (Thalictrum clavatum
), Hog Peanut, Clearweed (Pilea pumila) and Hedge
Buckwheat (Polygonum cristatum).
On
this day the summit was enlivened by resident Juncos (Junco
hyemalis) not yet departed to their winter refuge in the
lowlands, the calls of Ravens ( Corvus corax ) and of a Red
- tailed Hawk (Buteo jamaicensis).
While
apparent, the effects of elevation and aspect in the 1000 ft. (300
m) vertical climb are subtle, aspect being countered by soil
improvement at the bench and above, and elevation exerting its
influence only in the occurrence of a few species such as
Chokecherry and in the exclusion of Chestnut Oak above 3500 feet. It
is likely, however, that more detailed studies would show additional
effects.
This
traverse began at the trailhead on State Route 250 at an elevation
of about 1950 ft. (595 meters) asl, followed the trail along the
Hollow bottom, ascended past the local prominence of Coal Pit Knob
and continued on to the summit. Aspect is easterly initially on the
climb but westerly most of the way to the top.
Here
emphasis is on Chimney Hollow, in which, on 9-27-95, the most
detailed inventory was done. Pleasant, though partly cloudy, the
smells of autumn were in the air and birch leaves had begun to fall.
The rest of the traverse, from the Hollow to the summit, which was
done on 8-11-91, resulted in a much less detailed inventory.
The
stream that occupies the Hollow is probably seasonally dry or
restricted to subsurface flow, but on 9-27-95 had considerable
water, perhaps due to recent rains. Except for water striders and
some unidentified insects, little stream life was in evidence.
However no specific surveys for such life were possible in the time
available.
For
most of the Hollow’s length — about a mile (1.6
kilometers) in all — the forest canopy is dominated by large
White Oak with even larger White Pine, some greater than 39 inches
(1 meter) dbh, and northern Red Oaks, also large. Canada Hemlock,
apparently free of the Hemlock Wooly Adelgid was concentrated in
the lower Hollow, and formed dense groves near the highway. Neither
this nor the common Red Maple attained the size of the oaks and
pines. Other less important canopy species include Black Locust,
pignut hickory and some beautiful large Shagbark Hickory (Carya
ovata), as well as Black Birch and Tuliptree (Liriodendron
tulipifera), with the last two increasing in abundance toward
the upper Hollow. Perhaps indicative of limits to the extent of
rich soil is the near absence of Sugar Maple except for scattered
saplings and seedlings. As usual in such hollows, there are a few
Cucumber Magnolia (Magnolia acuminata). However, only one
basswood was seen, and it had characteristics of both American and
White variants. White Ash also occurred, but is most conspicuous as
seedlings in the upper Hollow.
Prominent
in the understory in moist areas is Musclewood ( Carpinus
caroliniana), a species ordinarily as demanding of soil as
Sugar Maple but requiring more moisture than the Maple. Its
occurrence may have depended on utilization of smaller patches of
rich soil than those which are required by the Maple. Other
understory trees were Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida),
Sassafras (mostly seedlings) and Serviceberry of undetermined
species.
Striped
Maple, which is usually not present much below 2000 ft. (600 meters)
at this latitude, occurs as seedlings in the lower part of the
Hollow and seems to increase in amount toward the upper end, as
might be expected.
The
shrub layer throughout is dominated by Mountain Laurel, Witch
Hazel, and in the upper Hollow by Minnie-bush (Menziesia pilosa
). In some places, as particularly along the trail, American
Hazelnut (Corylus americana), distinguished by its hairy
-glandular twigs from its more northern congener, Beaked Hazelnut (
Corylus cornuta), formed dense thickets. Other shrubs
included Maple-leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium),
Deerberry, Upland Low Blueberry and Carolina Rose (Rosa
carolina), a native with conspicuous solitary red fruits. A
single bush of Great Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum )
had a lonely outpost near a seep, but more of this species may occur
elsewhere (as we shall see). Blackberry canes occurred in open
areas and in one place what appeared to be Rubus canadensis,
the Thornless Blackberry, was noted, although this species is
usually more at home at higher elevations.
While
high-climbing vines were scarce, Virginia Creeper and to a lesser
degree, Poison Ivy were widespread, at least as ground cover. Only
one grape vine, a small Summer Grape (Vitis æstivalis ), was seen. However, Common Greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia)
vines were quite common.
Ground
cover in acid soil areas was dominated by Partridge Berry (
Mitchella repens) and Teaberry and, in less acid areas, by Hog
Peanut. Partridge Berry formed large patches where moisture and
shade were ample, while Teaberry was concentrated in dry areas with
small amounts of Trailing Arbutus (Epigea repens), Spotted
Wintergreen and scattered Downy Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera
pubescens). In one place, along the trail about a quarter mile
(0.4 km) from the highway, there was a small patch of acid-loving
herbs including the less common Round - leaf Pyrola (Pyrola
rotundifolia). Here this plant was closely inter - grown with
Partridge Berry, Teaberry, Trailing Arbutus, mosses and Cladonia,
lichen, all under Mountain Laurel, Hemlock and White Pine. It was
also seen scattered throughout in other areas.
Another
acid soil lover is Roundlobe Hepatica (Hepatica americana)
which, as here, is generally common but seldom abundant. Much more
abundant, and in places forming large patches, is acid-tolerant but
not acid-dependent Creeping Five-leaf which comes in two difficult
to distinguish species: Potentilla canadensis and P.
simplex. Both Five-leaf and another creeper, Common Speedwell
(Veronica officinalis), become more abundant in the upper
Hollow. While these species are prone to dry or slightly moist
areas, Cleerweed is, in acid environments such as this, confined to
quite moist habitats, as distinguished from more alkaline
conditions, which enable it to endure dryer habitats.
Other
generally widespread herbs encountered were Sweet-scented Bedstraw
(Galium triflorum), White Wood Aster (Aster divaricatus
), Calico Aster ( A. lateriflorus ) (very abundant along
the trail), Wild Geranium ( Geranium maculatum), Four-leaved
Yam, a little Indian Tobacco (Lobelia inflata), Mountain
Bellwort (Uvularia pudica )and Plume Lily (Smilacina
racemosa). Indian Cucumber-root (Medeola virginiana),
distinguished by its whorl of monocot leaves and white swollen
rootstocks, is at home in a special niche of cool and moist
microhabitats that occur in restricted parts of the Hollow.
Of
particular interest is Wild Sarsaparilla (Aralia nudicaulis),
which, as indicated elsewhere, is somewhat sensitive to elevation
and prefers cool habitats. This plant was not observed in the lower
Hollow, but appears in small amounts about a half mile (0.8 km) from
the highway and becomes quite abundant on the east-facing slope
where the trail leaves the Hollow at about 2200 ft. (670 meters)
asl.
Grasses
and sedges flourish along the trail and in moist areas. Although
most of the trail grass remains unidentified, some Mountain Oat
Grass (Danthonia compressa) occurs. White Grass (Leersia
virginica) is common in moist areas, while the forest grass
Brachyelytrum erectum, its identity confirmable by its knotty
rootstock, occurs in dryer areas. Other identifiable grasses are
Autumn Bent (Agrostis perennans) and mama grass (Glyceria
sp.), the latter generally confined to seeps. Sedges also occur
in seepy areas and along the stream, but are difficult to identify
so late in the season. Carex scabrata, which still bore its
characteristic seeds, is an exception and Scirpus pollyphyllus,
with characteristic vegetative propagules, was present as well.
The
most abundant ferns were Christmas ( Polystichum acrostichoides
), New York (Thelypteris noveboracensis ) and Cinnamon
( Osmunda cinnamomea ), perhaps in that order, while
Intermediate Shield Fern ( Dryopteris intermedia )and
Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis) occured in a few places.
Ground Pine (Lycopodium flabelliforme ), in the lower
Hollow, and Tree Clubmoss (L. obscurum ) farther up, occur
with such plants as Partridge Berry, Gay Wings (Polgyala
paucifolia) and Wood Betony (Pedicularis canadensis).
Mosses, in particular, haircap (Polytrichum sp), but also
Fern (Thuidium sp.) and others show lush growth and are
almost omnipresent in acid soil areas. There they frequently are
accompanied in beautiful harmony by Cladonia lichens as well.
In addition the “Beard” Lichen (Usnea sp.)
graces tree trunks, and in particular those of large old White
Pines, concentrating on the north side of the trunk.
Scattered
along the Hollow, mostly in the vicinity of the stream, but also
elsewhere, are a number of small wetlands, seeps etc. The flora
associated with these is generally dominated by sedges and grasses
but also includes broad-leaf herbs such as Northern Bugleweed
(Lycopus uniflorus), Turtlehead (Chelone glabra) and
Crooked-stem Aster (Aster prenanthoides). A seep a half mile
(0.8 km) from the highway, contained, in addition to these, Golden
Ragwort ( Senecio aureus ), Hog Peanut, Sensitive Fern,
Bedstraw (Galium sp.), White Grass, a sanicle (Sanicula
sp.), Clearweed and Musclewood, with a clump of Great Rhododendron
off to the side. Farther up the Hollow a streamside wetland
contained sedges, including Carex scarbrata, Fowl Managrass
(Glyceria stirata), Arrow-leaf Tear Thumb (Polygonum
sagittatum), Crooked-stem Aster, Clearweed, Golden Ragwort and
Autumn Bent Grass. Nearby Intermediate Shield Fern grew on a down
tree.
As
already implied, there is a subtle change in forest composition from
the lower to the upper Hollow. A spot survey where the power line
crosses shows White Oak still dominant in the canopy with White
Pine, Northern Red Oak and rather small Red Maple and Black Birch
all common. Understory and shrubs include Striped Maple,
Witchhazel, Mountain Laurel, considerable Menziesia pilosa
and Hazelnut with small amounts of Rosa carolina.
A little
farther on there is evidence of a powerful lightening stroke that
killed three large White Pines and a large White Oak and left one of
the Pines shattered into jagged fragments. These trees stand
closely spaced on a small bench fifteen feet (4 meters) above the
trail.
Somewhat
before the trail begins to climb, where White Ash seedlings become
common, there is an occurrence of Squaw Weed (Senecio obovatus),
a plant generally dependent on rich soil, in its winter leaf rosette
form. Then, where the trail begins its climb, in somewhat dryer
soil, appeared the first tall racemes of Featherbells, (Stenanthium
gramineum), a lily-family native that becomes more abundant at
higher elevations. Also Chestnut Oak now becomes an important
component of the canopy and there are scattered Curtis’
Goldenrod (Solidago curtisii) along the trail, which passes
through increasingly ericaceous forest. And here, as if to bid
farewell for the Hollow, stand several large Cucumber Magnolias as
land marks to every hiker.
The
ascent toward Coalpit Knob has a westerly aspect for the most part
whereas above it, it is more southwesterly. For the most part the
forest on these slopes is dry and ericaceous, with the canopy
dominated by Chestnut Oak and with many of the same herbs as that of
the southwest side of the mountain. However, near the top, the slope
steepens and the forest becomes more mesic with, as on the SW side,
Chestnut Oak replaced by Northern Red Oak as well as basswood and
other mesic species. Here Mountain Holly (Ilex montana) and
the herb Wild Liveforever (Sedum telephioides), a tall
stonecrop, were encountered. Although the summit plant species were
recorded for the SW ascent, an addition, Mountain Maple (Acer
spicatum ),was found on this ascent.
Unfortunately,
circumstances on the 1991 ascent did not permit a detailed record of
species or their elevational limits being made. It is possible that
a greater diversity of species may occur on the steep upper slope of
the ascent than on the gentler SW slopes.
Because
of the slope configuration above Chimney Hollow and the narrow width
of the upper Hollow, cold air drainage into it is not particularly
favored. This may be reflected in the apparent paucity of markedly
northern species among the Hollow’s shrubs and herbs (but see
later).
The
primary purpose of this visit was to collect soil samples for pH
determination, but also for a brief survey of mosses. The following
samples were collected along a traverse extending perhaps 1/4 mile
(0.4 km) from the highway. Exposed rock appeared to be thin bedded
(10 inch / 25 cm maximum thickness) siltstone with interbedded
shale. Siltstone flags were abundant in the stream.
#1 moist
surface at border of mor and layer beneath, next to Teaberry and
Potentilla simplex/canadensis. This appeared to be a silt loam. The
pH was 4.4 both initially and 24 hours later.
#2 a moss
specimen from the base of a six inch dbh White Oak. This was
identified in part under the microscope as a species of Fissidens
(see later).
#3
soil, apparently silt loam, next to Teaberry and Trailing Arbutus.
The pH was 4.5 both initially and 24 hours later.
#4 soil,
silt loam, under a patch of Cladina (now Cladonia again
!), with nearby Teaberry and Partridge Berry. The pH was 4.5
both initially and 24 hours later.
#5 soil,
silt loam, next to Round - leaf Pyrola and Round - leaf Hepatica
with varicolored leaves. The pH was 4.5 both initially and 24 hours
later.
#6 soil,
very dark and rich in organic matter, under Great Rhododendron. The
pH was 4.5 both initially and after 24 hours.
#7 soil
or possibly subsoil, greenish yellow clay, from eroded vertical
stream bank. the pH was 5.0 or higher, with an uncertain reading.
#8 soil,
organic silt loam, under Partridge Berry. The pH was 4.5.
#9 soil,
silt loam, under Mountain Laurel. The pH was 4.5.
The
entire forest floor of the part of the Hollow traversed appeared to
be dominated by Teaberry, with abundant Partridge Berry in moister
areas. Trailing Arbutus and Pyrola were less common. The most
prevalent mosses appeared to be species of Thuidium and
Dicranum, with a little of the previously mentioned Fissidens
at tree bases.
As
indicated above, pH seemed to be quite uniform in surface layers,
perhaps established by reaction of rain water with leaf mor and the
underlying silt loam. Few birds but Pileated Woodpeckers (
Dryocopus pileatus) were seen or heard.
While
mature but not large Hemlock is the most abundant canopy species in
this grove, much the largest and most imposing trees are White Oak.
Although the grove is severely afflicted by the Adelgid and the
crowns much thinned, the Hemlock forest character persists, and
there is a generally sparse shrub and ground flora. It should also
be mentioned that Hemlock, although scarcely greater in size than
saplings, forms a major component for a considerable distance up the
Hollow. Thus we have:
#1
bryophytes from the lower trunk of White Oak:
Understory
and shrub species here consisted of Downy Serviceberry, Witch Hazel,
the pignut Carya glabra, including seedlings, a few Sugar
and Red Maple saplings and seedlings. Common Greenbrier was the only
vine seen. Herbs, largely around tree bases, included Common Many
Knees (Polygonatum biflorum), Round - leaf Pyrola, Four
- leaved Yam, May Apple, the Enchanter's Nightshade Circaea
quadrisulcata, blooming Rue Anemone (Anemonella
thalictroides), Downy Wood Violet (Viola sororia),
Palmate - leaf Violet (V. palmata), Caex digitalis,
Carex laxiflora, Poa autumnalis and the wood rush Luzula
acuminata. This date for blooming Rue Anemone is considerably
later than for this species in the Shenandoah Valley.
At this
point a soil temperature determination (T - 665) was made on a
flat aspect in the Hemlock grove. The result was T = 14.0 deg C, or
essentially the same as that obtained at Ramsey's Draft on the
previous day. Then continuing our collecting, we obtained:
#2
bryophyte from the base and trunk of Hemlock:
Brotherella
tenuirostris, Chiloscyphus profundus (Li). Dicranum
montanum, Frullania asagrayana (Li), Hypnum curvifolium,
Plagiothecium laetum, Pylaisiella sp, Tetraphis pellucida,
Thuidium delicatulum (on soil over roots)
#3
bryophytes from soil
Atrichum
angustatum, Dicranella sp (vegetative), Hypnum
curvifolium, Leucobryum glaucum, Plagiothecium laetum,
Rhynchostegium serrulatum, Thuidium delicatulum
#4
submerged bryophyte sample from stream
Amblystegium
fluviatile
Continuing
up - Hollow, we noted Carex purpurifera, abundant White Oak
seedlings, Black Cherry, Maple - leaf Viburnum, some in bloom, Great
Chickweed in summer leaf, abundant Partridge Berry, White Wood
Aster, Gaywings (Polygala paucifolia), a much stunted
jewelweed (Impatiens sp), Crooked - stem Aster, Fowl
Mannagrass (Glyceria striata) and the alien form of Self -
heal (Prunella vulgaris). Next collected were:
#5
bryophytes from rocks in stream:
Brachythecium
acuminatum, Brachythecium sp, Brotherella recurvans,
Entodon compressus, Fissidens taxifolius, Homomallium adnatum,
Leucobryum albidum, Mnium cuspidatum, Platygyrium repens,
Pylaisiella polyantha, Rhynchostegium serrulatum
Observed
here was Big - leaf Aster (Aster macrophyllus). Then
#6
bryophytes from soil and soil over tree roots along stream
Amblystegium
varium, Anomodon rostratus, Brachythecium oxacladon,
Brachythecium sp, Brotherella tenuirostris, Dicranella
heteromalla, Entodon compressus, Eurhynchium hians, Physcomitrium
pyriforme, Pylaisiella selwynii
We
now approached the trail, with its more open environment, noting
Teaberry and a large (> 25 m squared) patch of Early Low
Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium), a species usually
limited to elevations above 3000 feet (915 m) asl. Here, at
virtually the lowest point of the Hollow,. its presence seemed to
argue for substantial cold air subsidence and accumulation, which is
in agreement with the measured soil temperature. Also noted was
the Creeping Five - leaf Potentilla simplex, here in bloom,
and thus aiding identification. Fauna heard and/or seen at this
point were the birds Scarlet Tanager (Piranga olivacea ),
Ovenbird (Seiurus aurocapillus), Red - eyed Vireo (Vireo
olivaceus )and Yellow - billed Cuckoo (Coccyzus americanus), as well as a pure white, likely nocturnal moth, "concealing"
itself ineffectively under a small herb leaf. It should be mentioned
however, that the numerous small, light colored lepidoptera that
characterize rich mesic forests at this time of year, were not
observed in this forest.
We now
moved up - Hollow along the trail, making incursions into the
adjacent forest. Among the most conspicuous herbs was blooming
Yellow Stargrass (Hypoxis hirsuta). Associated species
were Mountain Laurel, the wood rush Luzula multiflora, the
conspicuous moss Pleurozium schreberi (which, curiously,
does not appear in any of our collected bryophyte samples!) and an
attractive "Cladina" lichen. Here also an
unidentified Chickadee (Parus sp) was heard.
We now
came upon a bush that bore a superficial resemblance to Minnie -
bush, but which, on the basis of vegetative characteristics, proved
to be Mountain Azalea (Rhododendron roseum). Next seen
were Deerberry, Scarlet Oak, and abundant luxuriant Dicranum
scoparium moss. At this point an Acadian Flycatcher (Epidonax
virescens) was both seen and heard. Then, encountering a seep
along the trail, we saw a bulrush, likely Scirpus pollyphyllus,
Northern Bugleweed. and Lance - leaved Loosestrife (Lysimachia
lanceolata). These were followed by Upland Low Blueberry,
Bluets (Houstonia caerulea) and the fungi Xerula
purpurea, Amanita pantherina var velutipes,
A, ravenellii, Astraeus hygrometricus, Clavicorona
pyxidata (on rotting wood) and an unidentified Russula.
Here we again noted the common occurrence of the forest bluegrass
Poa autumnalis, which here appears to substitute for the
similar but colder climate species P. alsodes, which is
common in West Virginia's Alleghenies.
Meanwhile
the following bryophytes were collected:
#7
from various moist habitats
Brothella
recurvans (moist base of tree near stream), Fontinalis
noavae - angliae (from stream), Mnium hornum (edge of
stream, bank etc.), Mnium punctatum (wet humus near stream
),Platylomella lescurii (on wet rock).
#8
from bases and roots of Hemlock and hardwoods
Anomodon
rostratus, Aulocomnium heterostichum, Campylium chrysophyllum,
Dicranella heteromalla, Fissidens subbasilaris, Mnium affine var
ciliare, Odontoschisma denudatum (Li), Plagiothecium
laetum, Tetraphis pellucida, Thuidium delicatulum
#9
from soil along stream bank
#10
from rotting down wood (mostly Hemlock and White Oak)
Chiloscyphus
profundus (Li), Dicranum viride, Entodon brevisetus,
Entodon conpressus, Fissidens subbasilaris, Frullania
riparia (Li), Haplohymenium triste, Hypnum pallescens,
Nowellina curvifoia (Li) (on debarked conifers),
Platygyrium repens, Pylaisiella sp (vegetative)
Here
we again heard an Ovenbird, noted a pussytoes, likely Antennaria
plantaginifolia, as well as abundant Rattlesnake Weed. (
Hieracium venosum).
Meanwhile the following bryophyte
samples were collected:
#11 from
non - submerged rocks in stream:
Brachythecium
oxacladon, Campylium chrysophyllum, Mnium punctatum, Platylomella
lescurii
#12
from wet rocks in and along stream
Hygrohypnum
eugyrium (submerged and on wet rocks), Platylomella
lescurii
Continuing
up - Hollow, we encountered Downy Rattlesnake Plantain, abundant,
very luxuriant, Delicate Fern Moss (Thuidium delicatulum)
and cushions of Leucobryum moss, Downy Serviceberry and
abundant blooming Yellow Stargrass; then heard the call of another
Ovenbird. Next seen were the fungus Collybia dryophylla,
Sweet - scented Bedstraw, Interrupted Fern, seedlings of Striped
Maple, Spotted Wintergreen and Christmas Fern. We then flushed a
small fledgeling from the forest floor, likely an Ovenbird, that
kept close to the ground, and were cheered that at least some birds
had nesting success in the face of all the cold rain during the past
weeks.
We now
reached several large White Pine that stood immediately adjacent to
the trail, and in the vicinity tallied the following fungi: Galiella
rufa, the moss - dweller Rickenella fibula, Ustulina
deusta and Pluteus cervinus. These were followed by
Slender Wedge Grass (Sphenopholis intermedia), Carex
styloflexa (a dominantly coastal plain species), Carex
platyphylla, Red Hickory (Carya ovalis), the fungus
Tricholomopsis platyphylla ("Platterfull"), then
Carex gracillima and Carex baileyi. Now, on the
northwest side of the Hollow. we encountered Tuliptree, Allegheny
Crowfoot (Ranunculus allegheniensis), Laccaria laccata
(a fungus characteristic of oligotropic moist and acidic
environments) and on the steep valley - side, White Clintonia (
Clintonia umbellulata). and Bunchflower (Veratrum
parviflorum). Also, on a rock outcrop on the same valley -
side, we found Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes), a species somewhat characteristic of carbonate substrates, but,
in the absence of acid for testing, unconfirmed as such by us in
this case. Moving again to the central Hollow, we saw Bushy Panic
Grass (Panicum dichtomum) and Variable Panic Grass (
Panicum commutatum) ; then resumed our bryophyte collecting
with the following:
#13
from standing hardwood and rotting down wood:
#14
from conifer trunks:
Dicranum
montanum, Hypnum curvifolium, Hypnum pallescens
#15
from dead wood and bark on the ground
Chiloscyphus
profundus (Li), Dicranum flagellare, Dicranum sp, Hypnum
curvifolium, Mnium affine, Nowellia curvifolia (Li) (
on debarked conifer), Rhynchostegium serrulatum, Thuidium
delicatulum
#16 from
sandstone rock, moist to wet small cliff:
Aulocomnium
heterostichum, Bartramia pomiformis, Blepharostoma trichophyllum
(Li), Chiloscyphus profundus (Li), Eurhynchium
hians, Mnium cuspidatum, Odontoschisma denudatum (Li),
Plagiothecium cavifolium, Radula abconica (Li), Thuidium
delicatulum
These
were followed by Purple Bedstraw (Galium latifolium),
blooming Green and Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum), common
Northern Red Oak seedlings and again, frequent Poa autumnals.
At
this point a second soil temperature (T - 666) was taken, also on
an essentially flat aspect. The result was T= 14.5 deg C, a value
not significantly different from that obtained ~1/3 mile down -
Hollow.
Moving
again toward the northwest side of the Hollow, we saw more Tree
Clubmoss, American Hazelnut and Indian Turnip (Arisaema
triphyllum). Then arriving at a springbrook at the base of the
mountain slope, we noted a quite diverse flora consisting of
Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum), Mealy Bellwort (
Uvularia perfoliata), abundant New York Fern (Thelypteris
noveboracensis), Hooked Crowfoot (Ranunculus recurvatus), seedlings of White Ash, the sedge Carex prasina, American
Water - pennywort (Hydrocotyle americana ), Indian Cucumber
- root, Intermediate Shield Fern, Golden Ragwort, Christmas Fern
and, adjacent to these, large vigorous Great Rhododendron.
Before
terminating our traverse and returning to our point of origin we
noted the following: Wild Sarsaparilla, Teaberry, more Tree
Clubmoss, Common Greenbrier, Carolina Rose, Honewort (Cryptotaenia
canadensis). Devil's Bit (Chamaelirium luteum),
trailing Arbutus, American Chestnut (Castanea dentata)
sprouts, Hairy Angelica (Angelica venenosa) and
Featherbells.
To serve
as a basis of comparison with other forest types it is useful to
determine the frequency of occurrence of the 68 bryophyte taxa in
the 16 (17 if Pleurozium schreberi is included) habitat
groups.
They are
as follows:
Ascent of Crawford Mountain / Chimney Hollow
July, 2003
Introduction
The
landscape northwest of Staunton, Virginia is dominated by Great
North Mountain and to a lesser degree by Crawford Mountain, both
forming an offshoot of the Shenandoah Range. Elliott Knob, the
highest point of Great North Mountain at 4458 feet (1359 m) asl,
towers over Crawford, which rises to little more than 3700 feet (1130 m) asl. Bedrock consists of Hampshire and Chemung Formations,
both of Devonian Age. The Hampshire, dominated by sandstone,
siltstone and interbedded mudstone, and the youngest of the two, is
probably prevalent in the area of our inventories, while the Chemung
consists largely of sandstone and shale, but with minor quartz -
pebble conglomerate and local fossil shell beds (Rader and Evans,
1993). Of particular interest here is the dependence of the
character of the vegetation on elevation, aspect and general
topographic position. Relation to bedrock type is unfortunately
obscure, except in a few places, since little rock is exposed.
Ascent
from the Southwest
Source
Walk: 9-11-94, Warm and Clear
Ascent
From the North Via Chimney Hollow
Source
Walks 8 - 11 - 91 and 9 - 27 - 95
Return
to Chimney Hollow
Source
Walk: 10 - 28 - 97 Clear, very cool, cold in shade
Source
Walk: 6 - 11 - 03 ; warm, humid, partly cloudy
Our
inventory began at ~ 10:30 AM in the dominantly Hemlock grove near
the road and extended perhaps 1/3 mile (~ 0.8 km) up - valley to a
little past the first large White Pines that border the trail. It
should be mentioned that this inventory occurred in a pause of a
prolonged, unprecedented rainy period, The inventory also included
making a bryophyte collection for later identification by R.
Hunsucker, who, as usual, was also a major participant in the
inventory as a whole. The numbered bryophyte associations and
described habitats are presented in rough concert with the vascular
floras as they are encountered. Liverworts are indicated by the
symbol (Li) and mosses constitute the rest.
Anomodon minor, Anomodon rostratus, Entodon brevisetus,
Entodon compressus, Fissidens subbasilaris, Frullania
riparia (Li), Forsstroemia trichomitria, Haplohymenium
triste, Leucodon julaceus, Mnium cuspidatum, Polytrichum
ohioense (on soil over roots), Pylaisiella selwynii
Bryhinia
graminicolor, Bryhnia novae - angliae, Calypogia muelleriana
(Li), Campylium chrysophyllum, Dicranella heteromalla,
Dicranum sp, Leucobryum glaucum, Mnium punctatum, Mnium
stellare, Plagiothecium cavifolium, Tetrphis pellucida, Thuidium
delicatulum
Amblystegium
varium, Anomodon attenuatus, Anomodon rostratus, Brachythecium
oxycladum, Bryhinia graminicolor, Campylium chrysophyllum,
Dicranum fuscesens, Dicranum scoparium, Eurhynchium hians,
Fissidens subbasilaris, Forsstroemia trichomitria, Frullania
asagrayana (Li), Hypnum pallescens, Mnium affine var
ciliare, Platygyrium repens, Pylaisiella sp, Rhodobryum
roseum, Rhynchostegium serrulatum, Thelia hertella, Thuidium
delicatulum, Ulota crispa
7
Thuidium delicatulum
4
Campylium chrysophyllum
4
Chiloscyphus profundus (Li)
4 Entodon
compressus
4
Fissiden subbasilaris
4
Rhynchostegium serrulatum
3
Anomodon rostratus
3
Brachythecium oxycladon
3
Dicranella heteromalla
3
Eurhynchium hians
3 Hypnum
curvifolium
3 Hypnum
pallescens
3 Mnium
cuspidatum
3 Mnium
punctatum
3
Plagithecium laetum
3
Platygyrium repens
3
Platylomella lescurii
3
Pylaisiella sp
3
Tetraphis pellucida
2
Amblystegium varium
2
Anomodon minor
2
Aulocomnium heterostichum
2
Brachythecium sp
2
Brotherella recurvans
2
Brotherella tenuirostris
2 Bryhnia
graminicolor
2
Dicranum montanum
2
Dicranum sp
2 Entodon
brevisetus
2
Forsstroemia trichomitria
2
Frullania asdagrayana (Li)
2
Leubryum glaucum
2 Mnium
affine var ciliare
2
Nowellia curvifolia (Li)
2
Plagiothecium cavifolium
2
Pylaisiella selwynii
1
Amblystegium fluviatile
1
Anomodon attenuatus
1
Atrichum angustatum
1
Bartramia pomiformis
1
Blepharostoma trichophyllum (Li)
1
Brachythecium acuminatum
1 Bryhnia
novae - angliae
1
Calypogia muelleriana (Li)
1
Dicranella sp
1
Dicranum flagellare
1
Dicranum fuscescens
1
Dicranum scoparium
1
Dicranum viride
1
Fissidens taxifolius
1
Fontinalis novae - angliae
1
Frullania riparia (Li)
1
Haplohymenium triste
1
Homomallium adnatum
1
Hygrohypnum eugyrium
1
Leucobryum albidum
1
Leucodon julaceus
1 Mnium
affine
1 Mnium
hornum
1 Mnium
stellare
1
Odontoschisma denudatum
1
Physiomitrium pyriforme
1
Pleurozium schreberi
1
Polytrichum ohioense
1
Pylaisiella polyantha
1 Radula
abconica (Li)
1 Thelia
hirtella
1 Ulota
crispa
9-11-94 Crawford Mountain. Mike Jones and Northern Red Oak.
9-11-94 Crawford Mountain. Butternut on summit.
9-11-94 Crawford Mountain. Copperhead.
6-11-03 Chimney Hollow. Ground flora. Photo by Mike Jones.
6-11-03 Chimney Hollow. Hypoxis hirsuta. Photo by Mike Jones.
6-11-03 Chimney Hollow. Vaccinium angustifolium patch. Photo by Mike Jones.
6-11-03 Chimney Hollow. Vaccinium angustifolium. Photo by Mike Jones.
Of some interest also is the occurrence of Early Low Blueberry, as well as soil temperatures in the lower Hollow similar to those at Ramsey's Draft. Although the elevation here is lower and the configuration of the Hollow less suited to cold air accumulation than at Ramsey's Draft (Mueller, 2002, 2003), the Hollow opens to the northwest while Ramsey's draft opens to the southwest. Additionally, the soils in the Hollow appear less stony than those of the Draft, a feature that favors moisture retention and cooler soil temperatures (Davidson et al, 1998).
Among the mosses, it should be noted that, except for Thuidium delicatulum, the relatively numerous species (for Central Appalachian forests) recorded here are not widely distributed among the habitat groups. This characteristic is in fact more marked here than in any other forest type inventoried by us thus far. Perhaps reflecting the generally acid substrate and the numerical dominance of Hemlock in much of the area surveyed, three species, Tetraphis pellucida., Brotherella recurvans and Nowellia curvifolia, which are among the most widely distributed species in the virgin Hemlock forest at Cathedral State Park, are also conspicuous here, if not as well distributed.
To place the moss flora in a greater perspective, it may be compared with a much larger one from Bad Branch on Kentucky's Pine Mountain ( Risk, 1998). The general environment of that area and its vascular flora were considered in some detail by Braun (1935 and 1950). The Bad Branch watershed consists of a complex of deeply incised headwater streams, slanting spray - bathed rock faces, cliffs, grottoes, waterfalls and other structures that add up to bewildering habitat diversity, and at least 149 moss species and 54 hepatic taxa (Davison and Risk, 1992). Like much of Chimney Hollow and Cathedral State Park, acid, siliceous bedrock, in this case sandstone, is prevalent at Bad Branch, and the mesic ravine forests in proximity to the stream are dominated by Canada Hemlock. Also, boreal species, such as Yellow Birch (Betula allegheniensis), are present as a consequence of the temperature lowering effect of the abundant moisture (Davidson et al, 1998). This effect is particularly marked for the moss flora, which contains a number of disjunct northerners. The Chimney Hollow moss flora, as inventoried by us, shares 38 species with Bad Branch and those most characteristic of Cathedral Park are included. Quite generally, the substrates on which the different bryophyte species occur, are similar in these habitats, although many species are found on a variety of substrates, and there is a great need to correlate their physiological characteristics with these substrates, and to determine the latter more precisely, if we are to understand the factors which ultimately govern stability.
The apparent weak elevational effect, presumably a result of lapse rate cooling, registered in the southwest ascent of Crawford mountain was referred to earlier. However we have seen that it appears to be mirrored and possibly exceeded in effect by subsidence of cool air in Chimney Hollow. This conclusion must however be qualified by consideration of the great differences in the summit and Hollow floras. While the summit flora might be classed submesotrophic or more nutrient rich (Rawinski, 1998), with species such as Coral Berry, that of the Hollow has many areas that rank as oligotrophic.. For example, certain acidiphile species such as Early Low Blueberry may be excluded on the summit on the basis of soil pH and nutrient composition rather than temperature.
The
ridge and summit areas of Crawford Mountain join many other ridge
and summit areas in these mountains that are characterized by mesic
floras. In some cases this may result from the favorable occurrence
of nutrient - rich rock strata and consequent moisture retaining
soils. However, mechanisms also exist that favor the accumulation
of nutrients and moisture from the weathering of strata not
particularly rich in nutrients. Such accumulation may result from
relatively subdued summit microtopography that favors the dominance
of chemical and physical weathering over the erosive processes that
transport weathering products down - slope (see our section on
Garden Mountain and Vicinity). In Chimney Hollow mesic species,
characteristic of relatively nutrient rich soils, are largely
confined to the vicinity of seeps, while dryer areas tend to be
oligotropic.
Braun, E. Lucy (1935) The Vegetation of Pine Mountain Kentucky. Amer. Midl. Naturalist, 16: 517 - 565.
Braun, E. Lucy (1950) Deciduous Forests of Eastern North America. Macmillan Publishing Co., New York, N. Y.
Constantz, George (1994) Hollows, Peepers and Highlanders. Mountain Press, Missoula, Montana.
Davidson, Eric A. Elizabeth Belk and Richard D. Boone (1998) Soil water content and temperature as independent or confounded factors controlling soil respiration in a temperate mixed hardwood forest. Global Change Biology 4: 217 - 228.
Davison, P. G. and Allen C. Risk (1992) Hepatics of Bad Branch Nature Preserve. Letcher County, Kentucky. Evansia 9: 52 - 55.
Mueller, R. F. (2002, 2003) Soil Temperature and Forest Type and Soil Temperature and Forest Type II. Forests of the Central Appalachians Project. Virginians for Wilderness Web Site.
Rawinski, Thomas J. (1992) A Classification of Virginia's Indigenous Biotic Communities: Vegetated Terrestrial, Palustrine, and Estuarine Community Classes. Natural Heritage Technical Report # 92 - 21. Div. of Natural Heritage, Dept. of Conservation and Recreation, Richmond, Va.
Risk, Allen C. (1998) Moss Flora of Bad Branch, Letcher County, Kentucky. Castanea 63, (2), 117 - 129.
Rader, E. K. and N. H. Evans (1993) Geologic Map of Virginia, Expanded Version. Department of Mines, Minerals and Energy, Division of Mineral Resources. Charlottesville, Virginia.