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Pocahontas County, West Virginia
January, 2001

General

The Hills Creek Scenic Area is the site of three scenic waterfalls and the gorge on Hills Creek. Within the Scenic Area the dominant bedrock is the Mississippian Hinton Formation, which has a diverse lithology, including thin beds of limestone, although no sign of the latter rock type was observed by us here. Overlying the Hinton on the adjacent mountain slopes is the Bluestone Formation, also of Mississippian age and of complex lithology. Finally, capping the mountain ridges is the Pennsylvanian New River Formation, a member of the Pottsville Group and dominated by erosion resistant sand- stones (Cardwell et al, 1968). The area falls in the Allegheny Plateau physiographic province and virtually all rock bedding has a near horizontal attitude. Of interest are the abundant large blocks of conglomeratic sandstone which lie scattered about in the Scenic Area near the Creek, and presumably were derived from the Pottsville as erosional remnants, or which were transported from adjacent mountain ridges in rock falls or slides. Because the upper Hills Creek watershed is dominated by siliceous rock - shale, siltstone and sandstone – its waters are largely acidic in character, and this seems to hold quite generally also for soils in the area.

Our first traverse, beginning in early afternoon, was under bright, cool conditions with some clouds, and extended down slope from the Scenic Area parking lot to the upper falls. The forest here, at an elevation of near 3400 feet (1037 m), was uneven-aged with a canopy of some quite large, and possibly old growth, Beech, Yellow Birch, Sugar an Red Maples, Red Spruce, Black Cherry, Canada Hemlock and a few each of Basswood, Cucumbertree (Magnolia acuminata), Fraser Magnolia (M. fraseri) and White Ash. The most conspicuous understory tree was Striped Maple (Acer pensylvanicum), but Mountain Maple (A. spicatum) was common as well. The most common shrub appeared to be Great Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum), but Hobblebush (Viburnum alnifolium), Black Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis), Mountain Holly (Ilex montana) and Witch Hazel ( Hamamelis virginiana) also occurred.

Noted in succession as we descended the slope to the stream were Black Elderberry, Striped Maple, a 20 inch (O.5 m) dbh, healthy appearing Beech, Intermediate Shield Fern (Dryopteris intermedia), which was the dominant ground cover, Sweet White Violet (Viola blanda), Curtis Goldenrod (Solidago curtisii), Indian Turnip (Arisaema triphyllum), Sweet-scented Bedstraw (Galium triflorum), the fungus Amanita ceciliae, Shining Clubmoss (Lycopodium lucidulum), Yellow Clintonia (Clintonia borealis), White Wood Sorrel (Oxalis montana), Oyster Mushroom (Pleurotis ostreatus), Hobblebush, the poison puffball Scleroderma citrinum, a fungus of the Russula emetica complex, Canada Mayflower (Maianthemum canadense), an unidentified Trillium (Trillium sp), Indian Cucumberroot (Medeola virginiana ), seedlings of Sugar Maple, saplings of Red Spruce, the fungi Boletus luridus and Xerula furfuracea, the moisture-loving and acidiphile sedge Carex intumescens, seedlings of Fraser Magnolia, Painted Trillium (Trillium undulatum), Red Maple, the fungiCollybia confluens and an unidentified Clitocybe; then scattered large blocks of conglomeratic sandstone, followed by unidentified species ofHypnum and other mosses on down boles and seedlings of Striped and Sugar Maple.

Here a soil sample (no 1) was taken from a 2-3 inch (5-8 cm) depth under a Spruce sapling with associated Canada Mayflower. This soil was quite rich in both organic matter and red clay. A value of 4.4 was obtained for the pH of this sample both initially and 19 hours later.

Continuing, we recorded a 34 inch (0.76 m) dbh Beech, a 44 inch (1.1 m) dbh Yellow Birch, Partridge Berry ( Mitchella repens), the fungi Ganoderma applanatum, the root parasite Armillariella mellea (Honey Mushroom), Collybia dryophylla and an unidentified Tyromyces. Here we became aware of the generally heavy leaf mat, which was present despite the prominence of Yellow Birch and the maples, the leaves of which usually decay rapidly. This may be an indication of relatively low forest floor temperatures. Also noted was the fungusFomes fomentarius on dead Beech and the relatively few seedlings of this tree. Next seen were a large Black Cherry and the fungiAmanita farinosa , the edible Tricholomopsis platyphylla ("Platterfull"), Boletus affinus var maculosus, also edible, and characteristic of Beech woods, the deadly poisonousPaxillus involutus, an unidentified Entoloma and Phylloporus rhodoxanthus (the edible but unusual Gilled Bolete). These were followed by seedlings of Mountain Holly, Thornless Blackberry (Rubus canadensis) and Alternate-leaved Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia).

We had now reached the upper falls on Hills Creek and observed the almost horizontal and rather thin beds of the Hinton Formation. Also apparent along the stream was the relative concentration of Great Rhododendron. Then, following the trail toward the second falls, we noted Honewort (Cryptotaenia canadensis), which may have owed its presence to limestone gravel in the path, also abundant Mountain Maple and on the adjacent bank, a single plant of Southern Mountain Cranberry (Vaccinium erythrocarpum). Here we began a descent on a wooden staircase bordered by a steep colluvial slope immediately to the right. Successively observed on this slope, the top of which bore a heavy growth of Great Rhododendron, were Dutchman's pipe vine (Aristolochia macrophylla), Hay-scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula), blooming White Snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum), Pale Jewelweed (Impatiens pallida) and Wild Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), both in bloom, Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina) and an unidentified species of Atrichum moss.

A soil sample (no 2) was now taken from the bank in reddish, quite plastic clay with little visible organic matter. This sample had a pH value of 4.5 both initially and 19 hours later.

Continuing our descent, we saw Sugar Maple, Black Elderberry, abundant great Rhododendron on the distant upper slope, Virginia Waterleaf (Hydrophyllum virginianum) on the lower slope with Wide-leaved Joe-pye Weed (Eupatorium purpureum), Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa) with flowers just budding, Millet Grass (Milium effusum), more Mountain Maple and White Snakeroot; then large and abundant blooming Wood Nettle (Laportea canadensis). A small seep contained Lettuce Saxifrage (Saxifraga micranthidifolia), while a moist rock bore the thallus liverwort Conocephalum conicum, and an adjacent area, Spotted Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis).

Descending farther, we saw Drooping Wood Reed Grass (Cinna latifolia), Carex scabrata, Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), American Basswood (Tilia americana), Foam Flower ( Tiarella cordifolia), Wood Anemone (Anemone quinquefolia), Silvery Glade Fern (Athyrium thelypterioides), Carex plantaginea, Great Chickweed (Stellaria pubera), Autumn Bent grass (Agrostis perennans) ; then more Virginia waterleaf, Blue Cohosh (Caulophyllum thalictroides) in fruit, a species of Lepiota fungus and Broadleaf Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis).

Here another soil sample (no 3) was taken from the steep colluvial slope in close proximity to Carex plantaginea, Blue Cohosh and Sugar Maple. This sample had a pH of 5.6 both initially and 19 hours later.

The wooden staircase had now delivered us to the stream flat at the slope base. Here we found Hairy Disporum (Disporum lanuginosum) with ripe fruit, Canada Violet (Viola canadensis), a single tiny seedling of Bitternut Hickory (Carya cordiformis), New York Fern (Thelypteris noveboracensis), the fungusDadaleopsis confragosa, abundant seedlings of Sugar Maple and the fungusLactarius lignyotus, a species usually found in "spruce and sphagnum bogs" (Phillips, 1991). Elsewhere Great Rhododendron covered the flat which borders the rocky stream bed. Here, among the rocks, in the open, grew Tall Meadowrue (Thalictrum pubescens), Filmy Angelica (Angelica triquinata), blooming White Wood Aster (Aster divaricatus) and luxuriant Hispid Buttercup (Ranunculus hispidus).

Continuing down the trail, we saw abundant Sugar Maple, coexisting Spotted and Pale Jewelweeds, Blue Monkshood (Aconitum uncinatum), the manna grass Glyceria melicaria in a seep, an unidentified species of the fungus Gymnopilus, Oswego Tea (Monarda didyma) in bloom and, on an elevated bank, Roundleaf Violet (Viola rotundifolia).

We now reached a steep cliff, which we descended on a steel staircase. Growing on ledges and in cracks in this cliff were Alpine Enchanter's Nightshade (Circaea alpina), Clearweed (Pilea pumila), Brittle Fern (Cystopteris fragilis), a large Poke (Phytolacca americana) plant, Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes), the alien cress Cardamine impatiens, Pale Jewelweed and a little Maple-leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium). On descending farther we reached a ledge with a view of the third falls, which at 63 feet (19 m), is the second highest in the State. Also seen here were Indian Pipe (Monotropa uniflora) and a Ruby-throated Hummingbird (Archilochus colubris). During our return by the same path we added to our tally Witch Hazel, the forest grass Brachyelytrum erectum and the attractive fungus Naematoloma sublateritium (syn Hypholoma sublateritium).

A water sample taken from the Creek had pH=5.3, in keeping with the generally acid terrain.

Additional species collected on the traverse and identified later were the following:

Smooth Rockcress (Arabis laevigata)
A sedge Carex appalachica
Plume Lily (Smilacina racemosa)
A fungus Tylopilus plumbeoviolaceus

The following are mosses collected and identified by R. Hunsucker from the hills Creek gorge. All occurred on moist soil or rock

Tortula ammonsiana ("new to me"- recorded from Sevier Co., Tenn. and South Africa as well; for more information on this species see Crum and Anderson, i981).
Plagiothecium cavifolium
P. denticulatum
Bryhnia graminicolor
Mnium punctatum var punctatum
M. hornum
Anomodon attenuatus
Bartramia pomiformis (Apple Moss)
Philonotus sp (strile)
Bryum sp (strile)

Fauna observed in the vicinity of camp included the birds Hermit Thrush (Catharus guttatus), Wood Thrush (Hylocichla mustelina), Black-capped Chickadee (Parus atricapillus) and Chimney Swift (Chaetura pelagica) and the butterflies Red-spotted Purple (Limenitis arthemis astyanax) and Pipe Vine Swallowtail (Papilio philenor).

A water sample from a brook that flows near the parking lot had a pH of 5.9.

 

Our morning of 8-17-00 began with the sounds and/or appearances of Hermit and Wood Thrushes, Black-throated Blue Warbler (Dendroica caerulescens), Cedar Waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum), Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus) and Red Squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus).

Beginning in the early morning, a traverse was made up the eastern shoulder of Point Mountain along the Fork Mountain Trail, which followed an old logging road. The following species and terrain features were successively noted: Initially the trail passed through mature but young acid/mesic forest similar to that described on our previous traverse. Large blocks of conglomeratic sandstone were conspicuous and Basswood, Sugar Maple, Beech and White Ash were canopy species. Seedlings of Sugar and Striped Maples were common, as were Shining Clubmoss, Intermediate Shield Fern and White Wood Sorrel. Accompanying these were the fungi Amanita flavoconia, A. fulva, Russula emetica complex, Amanita rubescens, and on hemlock, Ramaria stricta. Other associates were Yellow Clintonia, Canada Mayflower, Red Spruce and saplings of the same.

Now climbing, Beech assumed greater abundance and we notedMedeola, Honey Mushroom, Great Rhododendron, Rock Fern (Polypodium virginianum) on conglomreatic sandstone, Ground Pine (Lycopodium flabelliforme) and large black Cherry.

We now reached what appeared to be an old logging cut, perhaps 30 years in age, in which abundant Yellow Birch had seeded themselves. Associated were a few Red Maple, Cucumbertree and smaller Fraser Magnolia. Beginning here we also began to see large Fire Cherry (Prunus pensylvanica), some of which exceeded a foot (0.3 m) dbh. Seen here also was black, large (large bore!) Black Bear (Ursus americanus) scat, rich in plant fibers.

Continuing, we observed Partridge Berry, Black Cherry, more Yellow Birch, larger Sugar Maple, Hispid Greenbrier (Smilax hispida) ; then very abundant seedlings and small saplings of Sugar Maple Although in quite open forest, scattered red spruce saplings concentrated in the old logging road we were following.

Next encountered were a few small Black Birch (the first seen in the area) and still abundant Sugar Maple. Here also we heard a White-breasted Nuthatch (Sitta carolinensis), noted a few patches of an unidentified Polytrichum moss, abundant and lush Shining Clubmoss, White Wood Sorrel, the forest grass Brachyelytrum erectum, Beech and Beech Drops (Epifagus virginiana) and an 8 inch (0.2 m) dbh Fire Cherry, as well as some equally large dead trees of this species.

We now came upon an isolated 27 inch (0.69 m) dbh well formed White Ash encrusted with the moss Neckera pennata. A soil sample (no 4) was taken from a depth of 2-3 inches beneath this large tree near the trunk. This soil was rich in organic matter but appeared to be a semi-mor in that this organic matter appeared to be concentrated on top and seemed somewhat raw. Associated plants were Sugar and Striped Maple saplings, Intermediate Shield Fern, Beech, a violet (Viola sp) and the moss Thuidium delictulum. The value of pH obtained for this sample was 4.4 both initially and 19 hours later. If correct, this value of the pH falls within but near the low limit tentatively inferred for the stability field of this tree (Mueller, 1998). Also indicating a possible slight increase in soil fertility here was the occurrence of several large multi-stemmed basswood a little farther along the trail. The call of a Hermit Thrush was also heard here.

The forest canopy now became one of essentially Yellow Birch and Sugar Maple, with Red Spruce saplings confined to the trail side. Also present were scattered large Black Cherry, Hairy Disporum in fruit. The soil and subsoil here appeared to be deep with fragments of siltstone and sandstone. Violets were abundant ground cover, but no Oxalis was seen. Sugar Maple seedlings appeared to have increased in abundance.

We here encountered a 20 inch (0.5 m) dbh Northern Red Oak, and the only oak seen on our visit, while the adjacent trail bank bore a single plant of Saw Brier ( Smilax glauca), also the only example of this species seen by us. These were followed by a little Red Maple, Witch Hazel, with seedlings of the same and New York Fern.

A soil sample (no 5) was now taken in close proximity to Hispid Greenbrier with nearby Carrion Flower (Smilax herbacea) and Sugar Maple seedlings on a bank composed of seemingly rich soil. This soil was rich in organic matter, which appeared more incorporated with mineral matter and more decomposed than that of sample no 4. Anomalous pH values ranging from 4.5 to 6.0 were obtained initially but these dropped to 4.6 nineteen hours later.

Farther on we encountered more Basswood and then, at the trail side, abundant Mountain Bindweed (Polygonum cilinode), while the forest, dominated by Yellow Birch and Sugar Maple, had virtually no leaf mat. Here again there was a little Black Birch as well.

As we continued to climb, Sugar Maple assumed greater dominance, although Yellow Birch was still common, and there was a punctuation by large Black Cherry. Here we also saw a large Dutchman's Pipe vine ascending a Sugar Maple. Next, crossing a springbrook, there was Carex scabrata, Oswego tea, abundant Lettuce Saxifrage, rather stunted Wood Nettle and a little Black Cohosh. The rock here, while apparently mostly siltstone, included a black, non-fissile shale. Beech still remained a common subordinate tree, and a few Spruce saplings continued to line the trail.

Next seen were Plume Lily, Carex intumescens, Lady Fern, a White-breasted Nuthatch, Ground Pine,Shining Clubmoss on a mound and the fungus Lactarius atroviridis. The canopy was now essentially one of Sugar Maple with some Beech. In the trail opening the forest grass Brachyelytrum erectum was common and accompanied by Black Elderberry, a few Ramps (Allium tricoccum) in seed, Nodding Fescue (Festuca obtusa), Filmy Angelica and the first Christmas Fern of the traverse. Signs of Deer browsing was common on a variety of different plants.

The soil here appeared to darken somewhat and observed plants included an unidentified Sweet Cicely (Osmorhiza sp), Millet Grass and Fowl Manna Grass (Glyceria striata) in a seep. Following these we saw a one foot ( 0.3 m) dbh Fire Cherry, Autumn Bent grass, Medeola, Curtis Goldenrod and, in another seep, Golden Saxifrage (Chrysosplenium americanum) and Pennsylvania Bittercress (Cardamine pensylvanica) ; then more Basswood, Golden Ragwort (Senecio aureus), continued abundant Sugar Maple and the most abundant seedlings of this species seen thus far in these mountains.

Moving onward, we encountered the fungus Ramaria stricta and another large Dutchman's Pipe vine. Then, in the trail, we became aware of patches, several square meters in area, where the leaves and upper soil had been scraped away, as if by a foraging animal. Exposed in these patches were bulblets, white and pink respectively, of Dutchman's Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) and Squirrel Corn (D. canadensis), as well as the rhizomes of Two-leaved Toothwort ( Dentaria diphylla). These scratches were probably attributable to Deer, since they are known to favor Dicentra as food. Also heard here was the short call of the Veery (Catharus fuscescens).

Now, on the slope above the trail, there was a massive linear outcrop of sandstone of the order of several meters in thickness. This was a fine grained rock, quite unlike the erratic conglomeratic sand stone blocks or boulders seen on the valley bottom. Identified here were Mountain Wood Fern (Dryopteris campyloptera) , the parasitic dodder Cuscuta gronovii on Mountain Bindweed, Carex radiata, C. debilis and, on a slight elevation, a single blooming plant of Downy Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera pubescens).

A soil sample (no 6) was taken from the trail bank; this had well incorporated organic matter, and proved to be a silt loam from its lack of coherence when dry. Values of pH obtained were 4.6 initially and 4.5 nineteen hours later.

No lepidoptera except a few small moths were seen on this traverse.

Additional fungi collected on this traverse and identified by R. Hunsucker were as follows:

Amanita ceciliae - on soil.
Amanita vaginata - on soil
Bisporella citrina - on rotting hardwoods.
Boletus affinus var maculosa - on soil.
Boletus bicolor - on soil.
Boletus subvelutipes - on soil.
Chlorociboria aeruginascens - on rotting hardwoods.
Clitocybe clavipes - on soil and rotting down boles.
Clitocybe butyracea - under Hemlock.
Clitocybe confluens - on rotting leaves
Clitocybe dryophylla - on rotting leaves.
Cordyceps militaris - on larvae of lepidoptera.
Crucibulum leave - on rotting hardwoods.
Daedaleopsis confragosa - on rotting hardwoods.
Daldinia concentrica - on rotting hardwoods.
Dibotrya morbosa - parasitic on Prunus.
Entoloma sp.
Fomes fomentarius - on rotting hardwoods.
Ganoderma applanatum - on rotting hardwoods.
Gyroporus castaneus - on soil.
Hericium erinaceus - on rotting hardwoods.
Hydnellum scrobiculatum - on soil.
Hygrophorus nitidus - on soil.
Hypomyces chrysospermus - parasitic on Boletus.
Hypomyces luteovirens - parasitic on Russulaceae.
Inocybe rimosa ( synI. fastigiata) - on soil.
Inocybe sp - on soil.
Inonotus radiatus - on rotting hardwoods.
Laccaria ochropurpurea - on soil.
Lactarius lignyotus - on soil
Mycena leaiana - on rotting hardwoods.
Mycena pura - on soil.
Panellus stipticus - on rotting hardwoods.
Pholiota aurinella - on rotting hardwoods.
Pholiota mutabilis - on rotting hardwoods.
Pholiota squarrosoides - on rotting hardwoods.
Polyporus radicatus - attached to buried wood such as roots.
Rickenella fibula - in moss.
Russula spp (about 4) - on soil.
Schizophyllum commune - on rotting hardwoods.
Scleroderma citrinum - on soil.
Scutellina scutellata - on rotting hardwoods.
Stereum complicatum - on twigs of dead hardwoods.
Strobilomyces confuses - on soil.
Trametes versicolor - on rotting hardwoods.
Tremellodendron pallidum - on soil.
Trichaptum biforme - on rotting hardwoods.
Tricholomopsis platyphylla - on rotting hardwoods

As evening thunder sounded to the northwest - the prelude to heavy showers as night fell - a few additional observations were made around camp and along the trail to the upper falls. These included the abundance of Solidago rugosa along the road, bands of juncos ( Junco hyemalis), likely family groups, in low shrubbery, Speckled Alder (Alnus rugosa) along the Creek and the generally healthy appearance of Beech, indicating apparent low incidence of the Scale - Nectria complex. Also noted was the apparent smaller sizes and less sharply angular forms of the conglomeratic sandstone blocks as compared to those at the Gaudineer Scenic Area (see our section on this area). It seems likely that this difference is a consequence of the greater distance that those at Hills Creek had been transported.

Summary

Although soils in the area are prevailingly acid and the forest types acid/mesic in character, a considerable diversity of habitats is present, particularly in the vicinity of the stream. As in many locations in the Allegheny Highlands, there is a relatively small number of tree species. Additionally, although the herb layer is quite diverse, many herbs and vines characteristic of the Central Appalachians as a whole are missing. Particularly conspicuous by their absence are virtually all vines such as the grapes (Vitis spp), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia ), Poison Ivy (Rhus radicans) and low frequencies of the greenbriers (Smilax spp). It is likely that these absences and low numbers are a direct consequence of relatively low temperatures and late frosts in the early growing season, and this results in a climate similar to that of northern New England or adjacent Canada.

References

Cardwell, Dudley H., Robert B. Erwin, Herbert P. Woodward and Charles W, Lotz, compilers (1968) Geologic Map of West Virginia, Slightly revised 1986. West Virginia Geologic and Economic Survey. Morgantown, West Virginia.

Crum, Howard A. and Lewis E Anderson (1981) Mosses of Eastern North America, in Two Volumes Columbia University Press, New York.

Mueller, R. F.(1998) Exploring Nature's Multidimensional Space, The Forest Example. Forests of the Central Appalachians Project. Virginians for Wilderness Web Page.

Phillips, Roger (1991) Mushrooms of North America. Little Brown and Co., Boston.