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Our traverse extended from the Jefferson National Forest recreation site at an elevation
of near 2100 ft (640 meters) to the Falls at perhaps 2800 ft (850 meters) asl. It
began in mid-morning under heavy clouds that soon dissipated. As elsewhere, water
was high and the creek was a savage torrent that roared so loud that it prevented
us from hearing many birds and other wildlife. Species and terrain features will
be listed in the general order in which they were observed on the traverse, with
both common and scientific names of less familiar species given on first mention.
The forest here is almost all young, perhaps less than 50 years in age, based on tree
size and growing conditions; although there are isolated trees and small stands that
are older, usually in inaccessible rock fall areas. Aspect in the vicinity of the
trail is generally southeast and the vegetation may reflect this to a degree. The
canopy at the start of the traverse was dominated by Yellow Buckeye and Sugar Maple
with subordinate White Ash, Black Locust, Ash-leaf Maple (Acer negundo), Slippery Elm, Black Walnut and Sycamore. It is likely that other mesic species
were missed. Little woody undergrowth was noted, but there was a very luxuriant
ground cover of mostly tall herbs that covered the area of gentle slope near the
stream. Included were Wood Nettle (Laportea canadensis), Nodding Fescue (Festuca obtusa), Virginia Waterleaf (Hydrophyllum virginianum), which was generally common throughout the traverse and had finished blooming here,
Clustered Snakeroot (Sanicula gregaria) coming into bloom, Wild Blue Phlox (Phlox divaricata) in full bloom, Wingstem (Verbesina alternifolia), White-flowered Leafcup (Polymnia canadensis) also in bloom, Virginia Knotweed (Polygonum virginianum), Jewelweed (Impatiens
sp.), Wild Stonecrop (Sedum ternatum) in bloom, Downy Wood Violet (Viola sororia), also in bloom, Late Goldenrod (Solidago gigantea), Steele's Meadowrue (Thalictrum steeleanum), Hispid Greenbrier (Smilax hispida), Wild Lettuce (Lactuca canadensis), Maryland Figwort (Scrophularia marilandica), Cleavers (Galium aperine), Hog Peanut (Amphicarpa bracteata), the sedge Carex amphibola
, an Avens (Geum
sp.), Kidney-leaf Crowfoot (Ranunculus
abortivus), and the alien Garlic Mustard (Alliaria officinalis) in abundance. Passing beyond the herb field we saw the first American Basswood
(Tilia americana), followed by Rattlesnake Fern {Botrychium virginianum), the edible fungus Polyporus squamosus
on dead wood, Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), a very little Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) and Downy Many Knees (Polygonatum pubescens)
, the only species of the genus seen all day. These were followed by Plume Lily (Smilacina racemosa), Smooth Rockcress (Arabis l'vigata), Ebony Spleenwort (Asplenium platyneuron), Large-flowered Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum), Dutchman's Pipe vine (Aristolochia macrophylla), Self-heal (Prunella vulgaris) near the trail, White Wood Aster (Aster divaricatus), Blue Wood Aster (A. cordifolius), Wild Yam (Dioscorea quaternata), Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis), Curtis Goldenrod (Solidago curtisii), the sedge Carex communis
, Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), our first shrub, Carrion Flower (Smilax herbacea), Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum), the most conspicuous flower throughout our traverse, the Golden Alexanders (Zizia trifoliata) also in bloom, Poison Ivy (Rhus radicans), Upright Yellow Wood Sorrel (Oxalis stricta), the uncommon calciphile sedge Carex albursina
and Bitternut Hickory (Carya cordiformis), another familiar of rich soils.
Now there was a steepening of the slope accompanied by the first Beech, here mature,
with Striped Maple (Acer pensylvanicum). These were followed by Broadleaf Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis ) Great Chickweed(Stellaria pubera) and an increase in Sugar Maple.
Our passage through this section of forest had been accompanied by the calls of Scarlet
Tanagers (Piranga olivacea), Red-eyed Vireos (Vireo olivaceus), Blue Jays (Cyanocitta cristata) and other birds that could not be identified because of the stream.
Despite the presence of such species as Indian Turnip (Aris'ma triphyllum), the grass Panicum boscii
, Shagbark Hickory and Cut-leaf Toothwort (Dentaria laciniata), there was now a decrease in luxuriance of herbs associated with an increase in
massive blocks of sandstone. Seen for the first time was Rock Fern (Polypodium virginianum), Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa), Wild Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and Alumroot (Heuchera americana). On a distant steep slope isolated and brilliantly-blooming plants of Fire Pink
(Silene virginica) stood out against the rock and trunks of the first Chestnut Oaks, which were however
accompanied by Tuliptree, a mesic species that was likely missed earlier. Then,
possibly reflecting more acid soils, there appeared the first Maple-leaf Viburnum
(Viburnum acerifolium) followed by Boott's Goldenrod (Solidago boottii), Cucumbertree, Mealy Bellwort (Uvularia perfoliata) and a Senecio, possibly S. smallii, based on lack of stolons, but with obovate leaves.
Now noting the first Purple Bedstraw (Gallium latifolium) and the Tick Trefoil Desmodium glutinosum
we reached a high steep slope covered largely by a dense growth of the sedge Carex pensylvanica
and Wild Stonecrop, here as elsewhere conspicuously in bloom. Also present were
unusually large plants of Squawroot (Conopholis americana), while Sugar Maple dominated the canopy. Yellow Buckeye was no longer an associate.
Not far beyond the sedge-covered slope we encountered our first Canada Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), here of canopy size, and following, Virgin's Bower (Clematis virginiana) and Marginal Shield Fern (Dryopteris marginalis), the latter with a glaucous aspect. These were followed by more Indian Turnip,
the fungus Mycena leaiana, bright red in color, and a species of Marasmius. Also noted was the first Sassafras and the particular abundance of Virginia Waterleaf.
Seemingly indicating a moderately rich if not the richest habitat, we continued to
see as we advanced Heuchera americana, then the first noted plant of Carex platyphylla, considerable Mnium
moss, Hooked Crowfoot (Ranunculus recurvatus), Short-leaved Bluegrass (Poa cuspidata) and the first noted Northern Red Oak.
Again entering more hospitable terrain, there was a brief return to rich ground flora
under Sycamore, White Ash, Black Walnut, American Basswood and small Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis). Here we also identified the first Black Birch, Prickly Gooseberry (Ribes cynosbati) and Horse Balm (Collinsonia canadensis), as well as more Tuliptree and the song of a Parula Warbler (Parula americana). Following these were Summer Grape (Vitis 'stivalis), the Deer Mushroom (Pluteus cervinus) on dead wood, Downy Many Knees, Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and a live land snail. These were succeeded by Wild Rye (Elymus) of an unknown species, a large (2 ft/ 0.6 meter dbh) Black Walnut, Redbud (Cercis canadensis) and in a more open area, Daisy Fleabane (Erigeron annuus) and Philadelphia Fleabane (E. philadelphicus).
With the trail rising more steeply again, we noted Common Greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia), the first Great Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum) seen near the trail (it had been present along the stream earlier), more Hemlock,
Chestnut Oak, the first noted Black Oak, Showy Skullcap (Scutellaria serrata) and Hairy Disporium (Disporium lanuginosum).
We now reached the vicinity of a large Beech beneath which grew a dense cover of Wood
Betony (Pedicularis canadensis) with nearby Black Oak and healthy-appearing Hemlock. Not far up the trail from the
Beech we were attracted by the bloom of Robin's Plantain (Erigeron puchellus), the adjacent canopy being dominated by Sugar Maple, with Beech, Black Walnut and
Shagbark Hickory. Here we became aware of numerous bird calls, which could not be
identified due to the stream's roar. Curiously also, it was here that we saw the
first Spice Bush (Lindera benzoin), a species which might have been expected earlier, given the soil fertility. However,
in keeping with its scarcity, the shrub also seemed to lack vigor as indicated by
its small leaves and sparse foliage. While it seems unlikely that a critical nutrient or element was in short or oversupply in this case, it may be that an unfavorable
biologic factor restricted the shrub's growth.
Our climb had not taken us much beyond the Spice Bush when we encountered the first
Yellow Birch (Betula alleghaniensis), a species usually indicative of cool growing conditions. It was here associated
with Tuliptree and Black Locust. Here also we heard the call of the Eastern Phoebe
(Sayornis phoebe) rise above the water's sound.
Next seen was a small group of Hemlock beneath which sufficient acidic conditions
had been created for both Round-leaf Pyrola (Pyrola rotundifolia) and Round-leaf Violet (Viola rotundifolia), with Alternate-leaf Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) on its edge. Also audible here was the call again of Scarlet Tanager.
We had now arrived in an area with a great prominence of Northern Red Oak in association
with Sugar Maple and the first noted occurrence of the forest grass Brachyelytrum erectum. These were followed by Big-leaf Aster (Aster macrophyllus), Thin-leaved Sunflower (Helianthus decapetalus) and the only Canada Moonseed (Menispermum canadense) seen on the traverse.
Although I have failed to mention Flowering Raspberry (Rubus odoratus), which we had been seeing along the way, this shrub became more prominent here,
and continued so upward. Here also, quite unexpectedly, we saw Southern Mountain
Cranberry (Vaccinium erythrocarpum) in the form of a square meter patch that had been reduced to a height of less than
a foot, presumably by Deer browsing. Following these we saw Early Meadowrue (Thalictrum dioicum), Tall Agrimony (Agrimonia gryposepala), Creeping Five-leaf (Potentilla simplex/canadensis) and on a distant rocky slope, the snowy blooms of White Clintonia (Clintonia umbellulata). Also found nearby were Carex laxiculmis, Wide-leaved Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium purpureum), Filmy Angelica (Angelica triquinata) and seedlings of Black Gum.
Although Black Birch had to some extent been a component of the canopy, it now showed
an increase in frequency. Also conspicuous here was Carex laxiflora
and two tall herbs that resemble each other closely, namely Black Cohosh and White
Baneberry (Act'a pachypoda), with the latter beginning to flower. Not far beyond we encountered the first Hemlock
clearly infested by the Adelgid, then the first Red Elderberry (Sambucus pubens), a shrub which is usually restricted to higher elevations or cold valley flats.
However the Enchanter's Nightshade in association with it was the warm to moderate
climate species Circ'a quadrisulata.
Ascending farther and noting acid-loving Dicranum
moss on blocks of quartzite, we were surprised to find a small patch of the ordinarily
calciphile Sharplobe Hepatica (Hepatica acutiloba) growing on the same substrate. It is possible however that the thin soil in which
the Hepatica grew was subject to more alkaline seepage from above.
In keeping with the increasing elevation, here likely above 2400 ft (730 meters) asl,
we saw the first Canada Mayflower (Mainthemum canadense), albeit in a somewhat deformed aspect and not in bloom. The occurrence was beneath
Hemlock, in association with Halberd-leaf Violet (Viola hastata), like Canada Mayflower an acidiphile but a southern species and rare at high elevations.
Here too we saw the first of the native forest bluegrass Poa alsodes
and Smooth Serviceberry (Amelanchier l'vis), both northern and high elevation montane species more characteristic of the Allegheny
Plateau.
Not far beyond this community we came upon a moist Rhododendron-covered bank that
harbored Sweet White Violet (Viola blanda) and Pennsylvania Bittercress (Cardamine pensylvanica), all under a canopy of Hemlock, Yellow Birch, Northern Red Oak, Beech and Sugar
Maple, with Witch Hazel and Allegheny Blackberry (Rubus allegheniensis) as additional shrubs.
The trail now passed through more level terrain near the stream. Such terrain is usually
favorable to the accumulation of cold air, which in this case resulted in abundant
Yellow Birch, Canada Mayflower and Northern Bugleweed (Lycopus uniflorus) but as part of a more diverse community of Shagbark and Pignut Hickories, White
Ash, Chestnut Oak, Hophornbeam, Witch Hazel, Prickly Gooseberry, Partridge Berry
(Mitchella repens), Wild Geranium, One-flowered Broomrape (Orobanche uniflora), Foam Flower (Tiarella cordifolia) and Bulb-bearing Woodrush (Luzula bulbosa). Carex torta
occupied the stream bed.
Climbing steeply again, we observed the first Red Maple, a species probably passed
over earlier because of its low frequency. Here also, and rather unexpectedly in
this less hospitable terrain, we found blooming Large-flowered Bellwort (Uvularia grandiflora), which is normally restricted to the richest soils. It was succeeded by Wild Liquorice
(Galium cir'zans), Tuliptree, the first seen Bladdernut (Staphlea trifolia), a Basswood with whitened lower leaf sides, but as glaberous as American Basswood,
and Spring Azure (Lyc'nopsis agriolus pseuargiolus) Butterflies.
The trail now ascended the gorge wall high above the stream, and Yellow Buckeye was
again part of a canopy dominated by Northern Red Oak, Sugar Maple and American Basswood,with
Striped Maple the dominant understory species. Also present was Red Elderberry in bloom, the first noted Mountain Maple (Acer spicatum), Dutchman's Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria), Golden Ragwort (Senecio aureus) and Canada Violet (Viola canadensis), inhabitants for the most part of cool northern and mountain regions. Wood Thrush
(Hylocichla mustelina) called from several directions and both male and female Rose-breasted Grossbeaks
(Pheucticus ludovicans) were sighted.
We had now reached an exposed slope high above the creek with a view across the gorge
to a ridge of Doe Mountain that appeared to be crowned by scattered Pitch Pine amidst
a sparse deciduous canopy. In order of frequency, dominant canopy trees along the
trail were Northern Red Oak, Sugar Maple, Black Birch and Hemlock with a few Black
Cherry afflicted with the usual poor form characteristics of the Valley and Ridge.
Great Rhododendron dominated the shrub layer and the rock surface bore the first
noted Cliff Stonecrop (Sedum glaucophyllum). A little farther along the trail a large overhanging cliff showered us with its
run-off and formed a rock shelter. Here we again saw Fire Pink in bloom under a
canopy of Chestnut Oak and Black Birch with Hemlock apparently free of Adelgid.
Here also was Hairy Heuchera (Heuchera villosa) clinging to the dripping rock and, at the cliff base, Small Yellow Crown Beard (Verbesina occidentalis) and Wild Sarsaparilla (Aralia nudicaulis).
Soon the trail entered a flat-bottomed stretch of the gorge, skirting the water's
edge to near the bottom of the Falls. The Falls at this season of high water was
a classic picture of serene power in its uniform vertical drop of more than 60 feet
(18 meters). Here among thickets of Great Rhododendron grew many slender Yellow Birch, again
attesting to the cooling environment of flats beneath high mountain slopes and aided
by water itself in this location.
Two factors of importance in the Little Stony Creek Valley are the towering presence
of the surrounding mountains and the diverse rock types that form the slopes of these
mountains. The presence of abundant carbonates on the upper Valley sides ensures
the availability of nutrients and a rich resultant flora in the valley below these rocks.
However the part of the Valley inventoried by us apparently does not have so rich
a flora as that we encountered at the base of nearby Pearis Mountain,where high calcium Ordovician limestone holds sway (Rader and Gathright, 1986). Although it may be
present, we found no Black Maple (Acer nigrum), a common species at Pearis Mountain. An additional feature of Little Stony Creek
is the increasing presence upstream of siliceous Devonian formations, a factor also
reflected in floral changes there.
The high elevations and extensive upper slopes of the surrounding mountains make available
great quantities of subsiding cool air during the early part, and indeed for most
of the growing season. The result is seen not only in the presence of northern and high montane species in low gradient parts of the valley as expected, but their
liberal occurrence even on steep slopes of the last half of our traverse. Despite
this however, there is still some segregation of such species as Yellow and Black
Birch, with the latter essentially a slope species.
Little Stony Creek Valley, Giles County, Virginia
Source Walk: 5-11-98, Partly Cloudy. Pleasant
Little Stony Creek, a minor tributary of the New River, heads at Mountain Lake and
in the highlands within and below the Mountain Lake Wilderness. There it occupies
an elevated basin underlain by Devonian and Silurian rocks consisting largely of
siltstones, sandstones and quartzites. Cascade Falls, with a vertical drop of more than 60
ft (18 meters) separates this basin from the lower valley, which is largely developed
in Ordovician rocks. Although part of the lower valley is floored by rich alluvium,
the upper two miles, below the Falls, is a semi-gorge with rock falls, talus and other
colluvium that extends to the stream and clogs its channels. This colluvium is derived
in part from Ordovician carbonate-rich rocks of undifferentiated Reedsville, Eggleston and Moccasin Formations. Consequently, ground water flowing through the colluvium
is rich in nutrients such as calcium and magnesium and this is reflected in the rich
flora found here. Looming Butt Mountain, which rises to 4200 ft (1280 meters), and Doe Mountain form the valley sides and create scenic views of superior quality.
Although the shrub layer continued to show little prominence or diversity, we now
encountered a few bushes of Black Haw Viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium) as well as a little Hawthorn identified as Crat'gus flabellata.