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Cool
early summer nights, Barred Owls, Whip-poor-wills, promise of wildland
mysteries
Fifteen miles (24 km) NE of Reddish Knob the
Shenandoah Mountain crest swings east a few miles and in that angle forms a
small sloping plateau. Rader Mountain
is an extension of this plateau to the south, while Laurel Run issues from
springs on its slopes. The highest of
these springs is Hall Spring after which the access road (FR85) is named. Similarly Laurel Run confers its name on the
large surrounding tract of the George Washington National Forest that has been
proposed as a research natural area (
Smith,1991 ).
Elevation of the plateau ranges from less than 3500
ft. (1070 meters) to over 3700 ft. (1130 meters) and the general aspect is
south. East of Fort Seybert, West
Virginia, a road (FR 87) climbs to the plateau up the gorge of Rough Run. This road is steep and truly rough with many
stream fords but the opportunity of knowing this mountain makes the effort of
taking the road worthwhile. Time constraints forbade a survey of the
rich mesic forest along Rough Run except to note stands of Tuliptree along its
lower reaches and Basswood and Sugar Maple at higher elevations. Detailed
inventories were confined to the plateau region however.
The forest along Hall Spring Road (FR 85), from the
junction with FR 87 to Hall Spring, is mixed oak with Northern Red, White,
Scarlet, Black and a little Chestnut Oak.
Red Maple was the only canopy maple seen, but Striped Maple (Acer
pensylvanicum) is abundant, as are American Chestnut (Castanea dentata) sprouts. White Pine is unusually common for this
elevation. This pine, as well as Pitch
and Table Mountain pines, is most abundant toward the north at the mountain
crest and many trees there have banner shapes due to greater exposure to strong
winds. Except for Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) the shrub layer is markedly
ericaceous, with abundant Mtn. Laurel (
Kalmia latifolia), Black
Huckleberry (Gaylussacia baccata), Deerberry (Vaccinium stamineum), Upland Low
Blueberry (V. pallidum) and,
reflecting these elevations, Early Low Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium). There is also a small amount of Canada
Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis),
apparently Adelgid-free, and scattered throughout, Rose Azalea (Rhododendron roseum), at this season in full and spectacular bloom.
West of Hall Spring FR 85 descends a little below the
Mountain Crest or northern plateau edge on a steep northwest-facing talus
slope. The forest here is mesic with
large old Hemlocks, White Basswood and smaller Yellow Birch and Black
Locust. Shrubs and herbs are dominantly
high elevation/northern species such as Mountain Maple (Acer spicatum), Mountain
Holly (Ilex montana), Smooth Gooseberry (Ribes rotundifolium),
Intermediate Shield Fern (Dryopteris intermedia) and Mountain Aster (Aster acuminatus), but also include Hay-scented (Dennstaedtia punctilobula),
Rock (Polypodium virginianum) and Marginal Shield (Dryopteris
marginalis) Ferns.
Immediately above this mesic community, on the
mountain crest, there is much Bear Oak (
Quercus ilicifolia) a little
Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum) and the
grasses Mountain Oat Grass (Danthonia compressa) and Mountain Rice Grass (Oryzopsis
racemosa).
Birds seen here were the Great Crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus
crinitus), Solitary Vireo (Vireo solitarius) and Rufous-sided Towhee (Pipilo
erythrophthalmus).
Butterflies included Swallowtails (Papilio sp.) and Spring Azure (Lycænopsis argiolis). Although trees seem to show signs of past
defoliation, perhaps by the Gypsy Moth (
Porthetria dispar), no clear sign
of the Moth itself was seen.
Rader Mountain is cited by the Virginia Division of
Natural Heritage as an important site for a number of rare plants, including
particularly Slender Wheat Grass (Agropyron trachycaulum), Low Cudweed (Gnaphallium
uliginosum) and Yellow Nodding Ladies Tresses (Spiranthes ochroleuca). The Laurel Run area as a whole also boasts
many of the endemic and disjunct species cited elsewhere for other parts of
Shenandoah Mountain (see our section on Reddish and Bother Knobs).
The Rader Mountain trail begins at a 3673 ft. (1119.5
meter) benchmark about a mile west of FR 87 on FR 85. At this point there is a small seep, which on 6-2-94 contained
unidentified tadpoles, Eastern Newts (Notophthalmus viridescens) and a Woodcock (Scolopax
minor) that was flushed after
leaving tracks and bill probings in mud flats.
The forest along this trail, which was followed for
about 1.5 miles (2.4 km), resembles that along FR 85. The more thorough inventory done here does not preclude the same
species being present along the road.
Additional trees not noted previously however are Sassafras, Large
Toothed Aspen (Populus grandidentata), and Downy Serviceberry (Amalanchier
arborea), all of which are quite common. Similarly, Sweet Fern (
Comptonia peregrina), Maleberry (Lyonia
ligustrina) and Black Chokeberry
(Aronia melanocarpa) must be added to the list of shrubs. In harmony with these shrubs is a dry acid
soil ground cover consisting of Teaberry (
Gaultheria procumbens), Trailing
Arbutus (Epigaea repens), Leucobryum and other
mosses, Yellow Stargrass (Hypoxis hirsuta), Mountain Bellwort (Uvularia
pudica), Wild Vetch (Vicia caroliniana), Moccasin Flower (Cypripedium acaule), Gay Wings (
Polygala paucifolia), Fly Poison (Amianthium
muscaetoxicum) and Turkeybeard
(Xerophyllum asphodeloides). Forest sedges are represented by Carex
pensylvanica, C. rosea
and C. debilis
and woodrushes by Luzula campestris. Northern Bugleweed (Lycopus
uniflorus) and Groundberry (
Rubus hispidus ) occur in moist areas. Other herbs are White Baneberry (Actaea
pachypoda), Indian Cucumber Root (Medeola virginiana),
Featherbells (Stenanthium gramineum), Gall-of-the-Earth (Prenanthes sp ) and Bastard Toadflax (Comandra
umbellata). Painted Trillium
(Trillium undulatum) and abundant Wild Sarsaparilla (
Aralia nudicaulis) remind us of the elevation.
Birds encountered along the trail were Gray Catbirds
(Dumetella carolinensis), Chickadees (Parus sp.) and Canada
Warblers (Wilsonia canadensis). Butterflies were represented by the Question Mark (Polygonia
interrogationis), the almost omnipresent Spring Azure and a Dusky
Wing Skipper (Erynnis sp.) as well as a number of unidentified
species.
The spruce forest lies along the upper headwaters of
Laurel Run, not far below Hall Spring, and immediately east of an inholding of
private land. Elevation is around 3500
ft. (1070 meters) and the general aspect is south-southeast. The existence of this isolated spruce forest
at this modest elevation in the Valley and Ridge raises interesting questions
regarding topographic connectivity of air and water movement and post Ice-Age
history.
There is a low prominence with an elevation of a
little more than 3700 feet (1130 meters) just to the northwest of the spruce
forest, and it seems likely that this is the recharge area of the springs in
the forest as well as a source of cold air available to drain into this
area. It seems likely that the
combination of ample cool spring water and cold air drainage from the upland is
able to counter the effect of sun exposure in the southerly aspect and creates
conditions favorable for spruce and a number of other cold climate species.
Although Red Spruce (Picea rubens) is the
focus of attention and dominates some stands, it generally shares dominance
with White, Northern Red and Black Oaks and to a lesser degree with Hemlock,
Red Maple, Black and Yellow Birch and White and Pitch Pines. Given the remote location of this forest and
its characteristics, it seems likely that it is primary. However the spruce are considerably smaller
than old growth of this species on the Allegheny Plateau, scarcely exceeding
1.5 ft. (0.5 meters) dbh. The oaks and
White Pine are considerably larger than the spruce. This size differential may be a consequence of the greater
susceptibility of spruce to fire, which no doubt was more prevalent in this
relatively dry forest than in the moist forests of the Allegheny Plateau. The same characteristic deficiency of
moisture would also have suppressed growth rates in spruce. The abundance of seedlings and saplings
indicates good reproduction of spruce at present, perhaps as a consequence of
recent fire suppression.
Undergrowth, particularly under spruce, is dominated
by Mountain Laurel and in some places by Great Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum). Witch Hazel, Downy Serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea ) and Mountain Holly are also common and in
more open forest Early Low Blueberry
is abundant. Upland Low
Blueberry also occurs in these
openings.
Among the most common herbs are such northerners as
Canada Mayflower (Maianthemum canadense), Painted Trillium and Star Flower (Trientalis borealis). According to the Division of Natural
Heritage ( Smith, 1991 ), Bunchberry (Cornus candensis) also occurs here,
although it was not seen in this survey.
Other herbs, mostly of wider distribution, are bluet (Houstonia
cærulea and / or H. serpyllifolia) (very abundant), Indian
Cucumber -Root, Downy Wood Violet (Viola sororia, ) Gay wings, Sweet-scented
Bedstraw (Galium triflorum ), White Snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum), Wood
Anemone (Anemone quinquefolia), Carrion Flower (Smilax
herbacea ) and a little Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens) Also, unusual in a spruce forest, Turkey Beard is scattered
throughout.
Forming clumps on hummocks withSphagnum and other mosses
is a sedge, Carex trisperna, rare in
the Valley and Ridge, and here near its southern limit of distribution. Accompanying this sedge in moist spots is
Fowl Mana Grass (Glyceria striata). Dryer areas contain the upland sedge Carex debilis, the Rice
Grasses Oryzopsis racemosa
and O. asperfolia as well as the Wood Rush Luzula echinata.
While ferns and clubmosses are not prominent in this
forest, New York Fern is most abundant with Hay-scented Fern playing a lesser
role. Among clubmosses Tree Clubmoss (Lycopodium
obscurum ) is widespread
while Stiff Clubmoss (L. annotium ) was seen at only one location on a low
slope above a spring.
Mosses included the haircaps Polytrichum juniperinum and P.
commune as well as a variety of
unidentified species, including in all probability more than one ofSphagnum. These mosses in some places covered large open patches in springy
wet areas as well as hummocks under trees.
Liverworts were represented by Bazzania trilobata, which is commonly found under
spruce on the Allegheny plateau, and Nowellia curvifolia, which forms orderly
vermicular growths on dead wood. In
addition, diverse species of lichens, including Lobaria pulminaria and Pseudevernia consocians graced the trunks of deciduous trees and pines respectively.
Birds sighted or heard in or near the spruce forest
were Veeries (Catharus fuscescens), Cedar Waxwings (Bombycilla
cedrorum), Chickadees and Canada Warblers. The call of the Veery, a thrush most characteristic of northern
mixed forests, is familiar in late evening at these elevations. At nightfall it is soon followed by those of
Barred Owls ( Strix varia) and
Whip-poor-wills (Caprimulgus vociferus). Although more secretive than birds, mammals
left abundant signs in the spruce forest.
Among these, in the soft organic soil of stream banks, were tracks of
foxes and large fresh tracks of a Black Bear (Ursus americanus).
The natural if not primary state of the spruce forest
is indicated by the abundance of large woody debris, canopy gaps and generally
complex horizontal and vertical structure
The terrain in which it lies also has diversity due to small scale
stream dissection that creates slopes and sheltering banks. In some places there are large dead snags
that show signs of early fires.
Interestingly the prolific reproduction of spruce within the mature
stands also extends out into the enveloping regional oak forest which is
secondary. It is most likely that this
expansion of spruce is due to recent fire suppression but it could also reflect
climate change.
The occurrence here of such species as White Oak with
spruce sets this forest apart from the Allegheny spruce forests which merge
with northern hardwoods. It bears some
resemblance however to one of the few other spruce stands in the Valley and
Ridge, that in the Mountain Lake area (see our section on this area).
Although the latter lies at a similar elevation, Tuliptree accompanies
Red Spruce in an even more diverse assemblage of Allegheny-type hardwoods.
The elevation of the plateau indicates that it would
probably have been covered by tundra during the glacial maximum and for some
time thereafter. It seems likely that
with climatic warming this tundra would have been replaced by conifers such as
Red and White Spruce (Picea glauca), Balsam Fir (Abies
balsamea) and Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana) as well as Hemlock and
northern hardwoods. With continued post
glacial warming most of these cold climate species would in turn have been
replaced by the present oaks, pines and Hemlocks.
The Virginia Division of Natural Heritage ( Rawinski et al, 1994 ) also studied a test plot
in this spruce forest, as well as other plots along the adjacent Little Laurel
Run.
References
Rawinski, T. J., G. P.
Fleming and F. V. Judge, 1994, Forest
vegetation of the Ramsey's Draft and Little Laurel Run Research Natural Areas,
Virginia: baseline ecological
monitoring and classification. Natural Heritage Technical Report 94 - 14.
Virginia Dept. of Conservation and Recreation, Richmond, Va. 45 pp. plus
appendices.
Smith, Lawrence R., editor,
1991, Biological Diversity Protection on
the George Washington National Forest. Natural Heritage Technical Report 91 -
1, Virginia Dept. of Conservation and Recreation, Richmond, Va. 118 pp plus
appendices.
Hall Spring/ Rader Mountain/ Laurel Run Spruce Forest
January, 2000
Source Walks:
6-2-94 and 6-3-94
6-2-94: Hall Spring, Rader Mountain Trail. American Woodcock track and bill probing.
6-3-94: Hall Spring Spruce Forest, showing reproduction.