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Source Walk: 6-23-94, Warm and Thundery
Condemned as namesake to an obscure settler, Kennedy
Creek seems more like the precinct of a native god or demon of green light and
shadow. Topographically this stream consists of two segments, one an upper steep-sided valley it has through
millions of years cut into resistant Cambrian sandstone and quartzite, and a
lower one on a sloping alluvial plain known as Maple Flats (see our section on
Maple Flats).
Our traverse here was short, only about a mile (1.6
km ) upstream from the Coal Road crossing at about 1700 ft. (520 meters) asl to
where the mountains close in. Yet all
the excitement of a world class botanical foray was in that mile. Tunnel-like, our pathless way led over rough
cobbly hummocks through mossy seeps and gullied side branches under
interlocking shrubs that spread beneath taller trees.
The upland forest that fringes and merges with the
riparian wetlands is dominated by Scarlet, Black and Chestnut Oaks with here
and there a Blackjack Oak (Quercus marilandica), as is appropriate in these
sandy soils. As elsewhere, these oaks
are accompanied by Black Gum, Sassafras, hickories and Pitch Pine. Although a young forest little more than a
half century old, many of the larger trees show basal fire scars. Understory consists of Mountain Laurel (
Kalmia latifolia) , Serviceberry,
likely Downy (Amelanchier arborea
), although other species may also
occur , Deerberry (Vaccinium stamaneum) , St.Andrews Cross(Hypericum
hypericoides) , as well as Chinquapin (Castanea pumila) , the
shrubby congener of the American Chestnut, but little affected by the blight
that eliminated the latter as a canopy species.
Despite the sandy, apparently sterile soil, the
upland forest herb layer is surprisingly diverse. As on the adjacent Big Levels Plateau, virtually the only fern
was the Bracken, unique in its possession of nectaries to attract ants for its
defense. Crinkled Hairgrass (Deschampsia
flexuosa) and Hairy
Needlegrass (Stipa avenacea)
represented grasses. In a few places
these were accompanied by the rare Variable Sedge (Carex polymorpha) , distinguished by its stout
rhizomes and reluctance to seed. It is
classified as C2 under the Endangered Species Act. Yellow Stargrass (Hypnoxis
hirsuta) , an amaryllis, was, as usual, common. Far rarer was a member of the lily family,
Colic-root (Aletris farinosa) ,
striking in its tall raceme of white blossoms, but subject to the plague of
medicinal herb hunters. Equally
imposing was the Moccasin Flower (Cypripedium acaule) , a large orchid common in acid forests and a wide
range of elevations throughout the Central Appalachians. Even more familiar was the white and green
patterned leaf of Downy Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera pubescens) , an orchid with superficial
resemblance to the composite Rattlesnake Weed (Hieracium venosum ). These two and Spotted Wintergreen (Chimaphila maculata) occupied similar habitat
here. Other acid-loving familiars were
Whorled Loosestrife (Lysimachia
quadrifolia) , Primrose-leaf Violet (Viola primulifolia) , Birdsfoot Violet (V. pedata) , Heartleaf (Hexastylis virginicum ),a relative of Wild Ginger, Mountain Bellwort (Uvularia pudica) ,poisonous Hairy Angelica (Angelica venenosa) , Wild Indigo (Baptisia tinctoria) , Cow Wheat (Melanepyrum lineare) , a northern and mountain annual of severe terrains, and Flowering
Spurge (Euphorbia corollata) . Somewhat less common than these were Racemed
Milkwort (Polygala polygama) ,
Frost Plant (Helianthemum
canadensis) , Potato Vine (Ipomoea pandurata) and Goats
Rue (Tephrosia virginiana) , the
latter once a source of poison for native fishermen.The Aster family was
represented by the Woodland Sunflower (Helianthus divaricatus) , Stiff
Aster (Aster linariifolius) , White-topped Aster (Seriocarpus asteroides) and Sweet Goldenrod (Solidago odora) , with the last-named an
excellent tea.
Here, as on the Plateau, conditions appear to favor
Teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens
), which, with Trailing Arbutus (Epigaea
repens) , is at home both in the upland and on the wetland hummocks.
In the streamside wetlands the forest consists of
Tuliptree, Cucumber Magnolia, Black Birch, Red Maple and Black Gum. Undergrowth included Fringe Tree (Chionathes virginica) and shrubs such as
Winterberry Holly (Ilex virticillata
), Arrow-wood (Viburnum detatum) ,
Mountain Laurel, Pinxter Azalea (Rhododendron nudiflorum), Flame Azalea (R. calendulaceum),
Minnie-bush (Menziesia pilosa ) , Maleberry (Lyonia ligustrina) ,
Highbush or Swamp Blueberry (Vaccinium
corymbosum) , already heavy
with fruit and Dangleberry (Gaylussacia
frondosa) , a coastal plain species. Perhaps a half mile upstream these were joined by Catawba
Rhododendron (Rhododendron catawbiense
), Red Chokeberry (Aronia
arbutifolia) and the little acid-loving, shiny-leaved Groundberry, Rubus hispidus. In places there were impenetrable tangles of the acidiphile Sawbrier
(Smilax glauca ) ,
Common Geenbrier (S. rotundifolia
) and on the stream bank, Smooth Alder (Alnus serulata ) and
Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) ,
which is at home in both acid and calcareous environments.
Because of the deep shade beneath the shrubs, ground
cover was dominated by such species as Ground Berry and mosses. However herbs included the sedges Carex
debilis variety pubens ,Carex intumescens, Cowbane (Oxypolis rigidior) , Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens) , Indian Cucumber-root (Medeola virginiana) and Kidney-leaved Grass of
Parnassus (Parnassia asarifolia) ,
which is not really a grass but a saxifrage.
To botanists the focus of concern here is Swamp Pink (Helonias bullata) , a member of the lily family
classified as Threatened under the ESA.
This plant occurs here in one of its last and largest strongholds
anywhere. Although it possesses a flamboyant
raceme of pink flowers, it is seldom seen in bloom (however, see our section
on Maple Flats). On this traverse it
occurred as dark green leaf rosettes in the boggy soil and always in deep
shade.
In more open areas New York Fern (Thelypteris noveboracensis) , Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) , Cinnamon Fern (O. cinnamomea) and Interrupted Fern (O. claytoniana) were abundant. Where the mountains close in, patches of
lush Sphagnum mosses become more abundant and shelter tiny plants of the
carnivorous Round-leaved Sundew (Drosera
rotundifolia), signaling the poverty of nutrients in the shallow
mucky soil. Here also, at about 2000
ft. (600 meters) asl, appeared the first few plants of the frequently high
elevation species, Wild Sarsaparilla (Aralia nudicaulis) and Mountain Aster (Aster acuminatus), which
are both abundant on the Plateau.
A variety of fungi also graced these wetlands,
including the Deer Mushroom (Pluteus
cervinus), which is edible,
the bolete Tylopilus gracilis, Polyporus elegans, as
well as a number of toxic Amanitas, including Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria var. formosa), A. citrina and the deadly Destroying Angel (A. virosa).
Although difficult to observe while botanizing, birds
called on numerous occasions. Scarlet
Tanager (Piranga olivacea)
calls were heard throughout, as were those of the Wood Thrush (Hylocichla mustelina) , particularly near the
mountains. While stream life was not
monitored closely, Pickerel Frogs (Rana
palustris) were observed on the banks. As the mountains were approached signs of past defoliation of oaks
by the Gypsy Moth (Lymantria dispar) greatly increased on the steep slopes.
Also dead pines were evidence for the recent activity of the Southern
Pine Beetle (Dendroctonus frontalis).
Our survey of this misnamed stream of the gods ended
with a seeming word from them in the form of a downpour, with liberal thunder
to speed our departure.