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Amherst County, Virginia
April 2000
General
The Pedlar River, a tributary of the lower James, lies between the westernmost ridge and a complex of some of the highest peaks of the northern Blue Ridge. Elevations range from 699 feet (213 m) asl at the James River to 4000 feet (1200 m) on Cole Mountain.
The Pedlar, if we discount its many bends, flows almost directly south and thus cuts obliquely across the prevailing strike of the ancient Pre - Cambrian Blue Ridge lithology. Consequently it is underlain by a great variety of rocks and structures,which include such deep-seated rock types as granulites, charnockites, mylonites and a variety of other gneisses and schists, as well as only slightly modified Cambrian sediments (Rader and Evans, 1993) . Of particular interest to our present studies are the massive, coarse-grained leucocratic charnockites of granitic composition. Since these rocks form the highest elevations, they are the source of many sediments in the upper Watershed. Also of interest are the darker and finer-grained pyroxene granulites that contrast starkly with the leucocratic charnockites and which come from different parts of the Watershed.
Inventories were conducted in three areas. These were 1) the flood plain of the Pedlar River at the junction with Davis Mill Creek at Oronoco, 2) the immediate vicinity of Statons Creek Falls on Statons Creek and 3) the northeast slope of Cole Mountain along the Appalachian Trail at the very edge of the Watershed.
We follow our usual convention here in listing both scientific and common names of species on first mention, but only common names thereafter, with a few exceptions for species with obscure or no common names. Thus the first encounter with a species can be at once apparent .
Pedlar Flood Plain at Oronoco
Source Walks: 6-22-98, 10-5-98 and 10-6-98.
Our inventories here were all conducted in the vicinity of the national forest campground and at the confluence of the Pedlar River and Davis Mill Creek. Elevations are near 1620 feet (494 m) asl and the terrain is mostly quite flat, although there are levee-type ridges.The 6-22-98 visit to the campground, in quite warm weather, was brief but notable for the identification of Turk's Lily (Lilium superbum) and the relatively large numbers of Scarlet Tanagers (Piranga olivacea) heard and / or seen not only at the campground, but throughout this part of the Blue Ridge.
The canopy in the immediate vicinity of the campground appeared to be dominated by Sycamore and White Pine, with common Northern Red and White Oaks, Tuliptree, Black walnut, Somewhat Adelgid-infested Canada Hemlock, White Ash, Shagbark Hickory, Cucumbertree (Magnolia acuminata), American and Slippery Elms, American and White Basswoods, Red Maple, Ash-leaf Maple (Acer negundo), Black Gum, Sassafras, Black Cherry, Virginia and Pitch Pines. A single Black Birch and a 16 inch (0.4 m) Butternut were also seen. Black Cherry had the usual poor form characteristic of the region, but on our October visit bore a heavy crop of fruit. The fair-sized Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) that apparently occurs only at the campground,was in all probability planted.
Understory species noted in the vicinity of the campground were common, apparently healthy flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) and Muscletree ( Carpinus caroliniana) . Shrubs were dominated by Spice Bush (Lindera benzoin), with subordinate American Hazelnut (Corylus americana), Wild Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), Black Haw Viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium) and Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) . Coral Berry (Symphoricarpos orbiculatus) was also common. No ericaceae were seen.
Vines included Winter Grape (Vitis vulpina), Poison Ivy (Rhus radicans), Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), Common Greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia) and Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) . In one place the alien English Ivy (Hedera helix) was rampant on and under White Pine.
Herbs seen in the vicinity of the campground were Honewort (Cryptotaenia canadensis), Smooth and Hairy Sweet Cicely (Osmunda longistylis and O. claytoni), Virginia knotweed (Polygonum virginianum), Wingstem ( Verbesina alternifolia), Tall Coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata), Panicled Aster (Aster simplex), Crooked-stem Aster (A. prenanthoides), Lowries Aster (A. lowrieanus), Calico Aster (A. lateriflorus), Velvety Tick-trefoil (Desmodium viridiflorum), tall and particularly vigorous Common Many Knees (Polygonatum biflorum) and Indian Turnip (Arisaema triphyllum ). Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) was common on local elevations and Wood Reed Grass (Cinna arundinacea) was seen on the bank of Davis Mill Creek.
Determinations were made of the pH of the water of Davis Mill Creek and the Pedlar River, which in each case was found to be 5.3. A determination of the rich surface alluvium along Davis Mill Creek yielded pH= 5.2. It was of some interest that rocks in the bed of the latter stream appeared to be mostly a dense, fine-grained, greenish feldspathic variety and could have been an arkosic granulite.
On the cloudy late afternoon of 10-6-98 a loop traverse was made upstream from the campground along the Pedlar River. We first crossed the River at the road bridge, proceeding upstream along the west side of the flood plain, then recrossed the River and made our return across the flood plain along the River's east side.
As we began our traverse Spring Peepers (Hyla crucifer) called along Davis Mill Creek in defiance of the season. Canopy species along the traverse were generally as previously described. However seedlings of Northern Red and Black Oaks were seen at the edge of the upland forest where we also saw Mockernut Hickory (Carya tomentosa) and Fringe Tree (Chionanthus virginica ). Shrubs noted on the flood plain near the River were Smooth Alder (Alnus serrulata), abundant Spice Bush, Black Raspberry (Rubus occidentalis), American Hazelnut and Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) . Vines seen were Common Greenbrier, Winter Grape and Summer Grape (Vitis aestivalis ).
The following species were successively identified on our traverse along the west ide of the flood plain: American Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris var lanceolata ), Asiatic Water pepper (Polygonum cespitosum), Riparian Wild Rye (Elymus riparius), Groundnut (Apios americana), Thin-leaved Sunflower (Helianthus decapetalus), Great Blue Lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica), Tall Agrimony (Agrimonia gryposepala), Three-seeded Mercury (Acalypha rhomboidea), Wrinkle-leaf Goldenrod (Solidago rugosa), Turtlehead (Chelone glabra), Northern Bugleweed (Lycopus uniflorus), an avens (Geum sp), Sensitive Fern ( Onoclea sensibilis), White Vervain (Verbena urticifolia), Deer-tongue Grass (Panicum clandestinum), Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa), a skullcap (Scutellaria sp), Ebony Spleenwort (Asplenium platyneuron) on elevations, Blue Wood Aster (Aster cordifolius ), Wavy-leaf Aster (A. undulatus), the liverwort Nowellia curvifolia on on a large rotting down bole, Woodland Sunflower (Helianthus divaricatus ) and Slender-flowered Muhly grass (Muhlenbergia tenuiflora), with the last two species occurring on the lower slope with Summer Grape.
After traversing along the edge of the flood plain for perhaps i/4 mile (0.4 km) upstream, we turned toward the River. A striking feature of the River bed here, under the existing conditions of low water, was the abundance in the bedload of uniformly-sized,four inch (10 cm), well-rounded cobbles of coarse-grained leucocratic gneiss. This was in contrast to the dark, fine-grained material that comprised the bedload of Davis Mill Creek. Also seen here were numerous 3 inch (7.6 cm) long fish of an unidentified kind. Plants encountered either in the stream bed or on the adjacent bank were Water Hemlock (Cicuta maculata), Wild Lettuce (Lactuca canadensis), the tall sedge Carex gynandra, The aliens Forget-me-not (Myasotis scorpioides) and the grass Microstegium vimineum, the bullrushs Scirpus cyperinus and S. polyphyllus, Rice Cutgrass (Leersia oryzoides), an isolated Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea), Small Yellow Crownbeard (Verbesina occidentalis), Purple-leaved Willowherb (Epilobium coloratum), Small-flowered St. Johns-wort (Hypericum mutilum), Arrow-leaf Tearthumb (Polygonum sagittatum), Rough Cinquefoil (Potentilla norvegica), false Pimpernel (Lindernia dubia), Marsh Purslane (Ludwigia palustris), Barnyard Grass (Echinochloa crusgalli), Black Willow (Salix nigra), Common Monkey-flower (Mimulus ringens ), Ditch Stonecrop (Penthorum sedoides), Calingale (Cyperus strigosus), water Smartweed (Polygonum punctatum), False Nettle (Boehmeria cylindrica), the alien cress Cardamine impatiens, Climbing False Buckwheat (Polygonum scandens) and Black Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) .
Spice Bush was extraordinarily abundant and vigorous on much of the flood plain near the stream. However, as we returned downstream on the east side of the River, nearer the upland, we moved beneath a heavy canopy of large White Pine and Tuliptree and at least one large, healthy-appearing Butternut. Fauna greeting us here were numerous tiny black flies (likely "punkies") that bit us about the eyes.
Source Walk: 10-7-98
Statons Creek, a major tributary of the upper Pedlar River, drains some of the loftiest parts of the Watershed. Underlying much of the area is a coarse-grained leucocratic charnockite gneiss, a rock that is well-exposed at Statons Creek Falls. On our brief visit to the area during the morning of the 7th of October the water was low and there was no visible mist from the Falls.
Our inventory was virtually confined to a shallow ravine immediately south of the Falls. A benchmark just above the Falls has an elevation of 2107 feet (633 m) asl, and our inventory extended between 50 and 100 feet higher in elevation. The aspect of the ravine is generally due north.
Canopy species along the Creek appeared to be dominated by White Pine and Sycamore, but those of the ravine were quite different. Conspicuous above the rocky bank at the edge of the ravine forest,immediately south of the Falls, was an evergreen rhododendron, either Great or Catawba (Rhododendron maximum or R. catawbiense), in a wilted state, either as a result of dry conditions or diease. Similarly wilted rhododendron was also seen at scattered locations along the road on the approach from the Pedlar River.
Within the ravine, which contained an active springbrook, the canopy was dominated by mostly defoliated and presumably Adelgid-infested Canada Hemlock with abundant Yellow Birch and less common Black Birch, Tuliptree, White Ash, Red and Sugar Maples, Northern Red Oak, American Basswood, Cucumbertree, Bitternut and Pignut Hickories, and on the adjacent slope, Chestnut Oak. The age of this canopy appeared to be young to barely mature.
Striped Maple (Acer pensylvanicum) was conspicuous in the understory, while shrubs included Spice Bush, Witch Hazel, Wild Hydrangea, Black Elderberry and Flowering Raspberry (Rubus odoratus) . Vines noted were Virginia Creeper, Poison Ivy and Dutchman's Pipe vine (Aristolochia macrophylla) .
Herbs, even at this late season, were diverse. Identified were Christmas Fern, Intermediate Shield Fern (Dryopteris intermedia), Marginal Shield Fern (D. marginalis), Rock Fern (Polypodium virginianum), a Clintonia, likely White (Clintonia umbellulata), Big-leaf Aster (Aster macrophyllus ), Mountain Aster (A. acuminatus), Crooked-stem Aster, Curtis Goldenrod (Solidago curtisii), Broad leaf goldenrod (S. flexicaulis), the forest wetland sedge Carex scabrata, Drooping Wood Reed Grass (Cinna latifolia), Wild Sarsaparilla (Aralia nudicaulis), American Spikenard (A. racemosa), Miterwort (Mitella diphylla), Tall Meadowrue (Thalictrum pubescens), Horse Balm (Collinsonia canadensis), very large and abundant Wood Nettle (Laportea canadensis), Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens) mostly intergrown with mosses, Downy Rattlesnake Plantain ( Goodyera pubescens), Sweet-scented Bedstraw (Galium triflorum) Downy Wood Violet (Viola sororia ), Tall Cone Flower, Panicled Hawkweed ( Hieracium paniculatum), White Baneberry (Actaea pachypoda), Plume Lily (Smilacina racemosa), the Tick-trefoil Desmodium nudiflorum, Indian Turnip, Hog Peanut (Amphicarpa bracteata), a sanicle (Sanicula sp), Clearweed (Pilea pumila) . and in association with the springbrook, Turtlehead, Golden Saxifrage (Chrysosplenium americanum), Lettuce Saxifrage (Saxifraga micranthidifolia), the manna grass Glyceria melicaria and the alien cress Cardamine impatiens.
Mosses were abundant in the ravine forest. Most widespread appeared to be Delicate Fern Moss (Thuidium delicatulum), followed by unidentified species of Mnium, Brachythecium and Hypnum, with the last-named apparently virtually confined to large woody debris. A small patch of Tree Moss (Climacium americanum) was also seen.
A heavy growth of mosses also occurred at the ravine forest edge on the road bank facing the Falls. Most impressive here was Rhytidiadelphus triquetrus. It seems likely that this and other mosses near the Falls are related to mists generated by the falling water when the stream is high enough for this to occur for extended periods, as in the spring. It is also likely that the occurrence of Yellow Birch and other cold climate species in the ravine forest is favored by the cooling effect of this mist during the early growing season.
Although no attempt was made to inventory fauna, a very active, dark-bodied Dusky Salamander (Desmognathus sp) was seen in the ravine's springbrook.
It is likely that an inventory extending throughout the growing season would greatly expand the ravine flora and fauna. The same would probably hold for the immediate vicinity of the Falls, which might harbor some uncommon species. These conclusions are particularly applicable to the vernal flora. In any case there is an implication that the charnockite bedrock here is capable of yielding rich soils of an acid/mesic nature.
Source Walk: 10-6-98
During the morning of the 6th we ascended Cole Mountain along the Appalachian Trail from Hog Camp Gap. This traverse lies along the extreme southeastern edge of the Pedlar Watershed at the divide from that of the Buffalo River. Elevations ranged from 3510 feet (1071 m) to 3881 (1184 m) asl along the traverse. Visibility was limited by heavy mist/cloud cover which wetted clothing but was not unpleasantly cold. In the following narration of our ascent species and terrain features are generally listed in the order of their observatiom.
The canopy at the start of our ascent was young, with few trees in excess of one foot (0.3 m) dbh. Dominant species were Northern Red Oak and Shagbark Hickory, with minor White Ash and Black and Yellow Birches. A single Virginia Juniper was seen. The understory consisted of Striped Maple, Alternate-leaved Dogwood ( Cornus alternifolia) and Mountain Holly (Ilex montana ). Coral Berry was an important shrub, as was Allegheny Blackberry (Rubus allegheniensis) and Smooth Gooseberry (Ribes rotundifolia) . A little Wild Hydrangea was also present.
Herbs on this lower slope were dominated by Hay-scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula), with less frequent White Heath Aster (Aster pilosus ), Five-leaved Gentian (Gentiana quinquefolia), Cut-leaf Grapefern (Botrychium dissectum), Virginia Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana), Hairy Panic Grass (Panicum lanuginosum), Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), Whorled Loosestrife (Lysimachia quadrifolia), Star Campion (Silene stellata) and Long-leaved Bluet (Houstonia longifolia) . Creeping Five-leaf (Potentilla simplex), an oat grass, likely Poverty Oat Grass (Danthonia spicata), the alien Canada Bluegrass (Poa compressa), an unidentified haircap moss (Polytrichum sp) and Leucobryum cushion moss appeared to be limited to a shallow acid-soil layer at the Trail edge. Here also we experienced a high point of our traverse, namely one of the largest and fattest American Toads (Bufo americanus ) any of us had ever seen, and which had probably been brought out by the moist air. Concealed in a patch of Allegheny Blackberry, it had the calm demeanor of a true veteran and seemed not to object to being handled.
Continuing our climb, we saw Curtis Goldenrod. Ground Pine (Lycopodium flabelliform), another acidiphile, also at the Trail edge, Panicled Hawkweed, Panicum boscii, Blue Wood Aster and large, vigorous vines of Carrion Flower (Smilax herbacea), which bore clusters of large blue berries. Here also we discovered several dark woodland (Plethodon) salamanders concealed in the interior of a thoroughly rotted, foot -thick down bole..
Next noted in succession were the apparent prevalence of Delicate Fern Moss at the bases of lichen-covered Shagbark, the calls of Ravens (Corvus corax), White Snakeroot, the particular abundance of one foot (0.3 m) dbh or smaller Shagbark and the common occurrence of sprouts and residual down wood of American Chestnut ( Castanea dentata) ..
We then came upon our first Sugar Maple in the form of saplings, followed by Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana) and the uncommon grass Calamagrostis porteri. Here Hay-scented Fern was again the dominant ground cover, but was accompanied by the common forest sedge Carex laxiflora, Autumn Bent grass (Agrostis perennans), Marginal Shield Fern and a little Hog Peanut. Common mosses were Hedwigia ciliata on the granitic rocks and at tree bases, Brotherella recurvans, species of Thuidium, Brachythecium, Anomodon and Dicranum, as well as a species of the liverwort Metzgeria. Also noted were Sugar Maple saplings with a striking bark pattern of what appeared to be a greenish-white crustose lichen in large uniform patches. These were followed by the fungus Panellus stipticus on dead wood, the sedge Carex pensylvanica at the Trail-side and a small sapling of Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana) .
Now continuing upward, we saw False Turkeytail (Stereum ostrea) fungus, Smooth- forked Chickweed (Paronychia canadensis), a few small Black Locust ( Robinia pseudoacacia), a skullcap (Scutellaria sp), Trail Rush (Juncus tenuis) and more large Carrion Flower.
Here we became aware of the heavy concentration of macro-lichens on the south sides of trees, except where the forest was open in other directions, in which case the lichens grew to face the opening. Dominant canopy species were Shagbark Hickory, Black Birch and Northern Red Oak, accompanied by Sugar Maple saplings Striped Maple and American Chestnut sprouts. Dead wood here bore the fungus Daedaleopsis confragosa , among others.
Some large rock outcrops which had an extensive cover of bryophytes now came into view. On examination these proved to include unidentified species of the mosses Dicranum, Thuidium and Bracythecium, as well as Hedwigia ciliata and Rhodobryum roseum and a liverwort of the genus Porella . Additional bryophytes may also have been present. Nearby we saw Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina), Christmas and Rock Ferns. Also present were White Wood Aster (Aster divaricatus), Big-leaf Aster, Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa), patches ofCladina lichen, rather stunted Mountain Oat Grass (Danthonia compressa), and farther along, Hispid Greenbrier (Smilax hispida) . The canopy was now dominated by Northern Red Oak, Yellow Birch and Shagbark Hickory laden with nuts. Noted also was the fungus Tyromyces chioneus, known as the "Cheese Polypore", although inedible, and patches of a tall grass, long past its prime, which was eventually identified as Drooping Wood Reed Grass.
We now approached another large outcrop amid an increase in Yellow Birch with the fungus Collybia confluens on the forest floor. This rock was graced by a diverse flora of bryophytes, lichens and vascular plants, including particularly dense growths of Dicranum moss, Rock Fern, Marginal Shield Fern, Wild Liveforever (Sedum telephioides), an unidentified gooseberry (Ribes sp) that had shed its leaves, Cladina lichens, and the umbilicate lichen Lasallia papulosa . Beyond the outcrop Yellow Birch continued abundant in association with Shagbark Hickory and a single healthy-appearing Hemlock. As we continued our climb we saw an isolated Tall Cone Flower, Bottlebrush Grass (Hystrix patula), Basil Balm (Monarda clinopodia ), a Brachythecium moss, Dutchman's Pipe vine (Aristolochia macrophylla), Virgin's Bower (Clematis virginiana), American Hazelnut, Smooth Sweet Cicely, Tall White Lettuce (Prenanthes altissima), Blue Wood Aster and a concentration of beautiful lichen-covered,nut-bearing Shagbark.
A little to the left of the Trail, in a semi-opening, we were attracted to a cluster of tall (10 ft/3m) flower stalks of Cow Parsnip (Heracleum maximum), which was followed along the Trail by Tall Goldenrod (Solidago altissima), Nimblewill (Muhlenbergia schreberi), Selfheal and, near the top of the slope by Silverrod (Solidago bicolor) and Cutleaf Goldenrod (S. arguta var boottii ).
On reaching the local summit of Cole Mountain we entered open terrain, which was kept so by mowing, a typical pointless an destructive activity of the US Forest Service. Here, at almost 3900 feet ( 1140 m) asl were scattered Alternate-leaf Dogwood, White Ash, Black Cherry, Pitch Pine and, chiefly on the north side, Yellow and Black Birches. Coral Berry, mostly cut close to the ground, was the most abundant shrub, but there were also large, vigorous patches of American Hazelnut laden with nuts ( gathered by us!) . Ground cover consisted of a mix of native and alien herbs, including Virginia Strawberry, the aliens Toadflax (Linaria vulgaris) and Spotted Knapweed (Centaurea maculosa), among others. No ericaceae were observed on this summit or anywhere on the traverse.
Our May, 1999 visits to the Pedlar River Watershed included three sites. The first of these was the flood plain at Oronoco previously visited in autumn, 1998, the second was an upland slope site on the east side of the Valley about four miles (6.4 km) south of Oronoco along Forest Road 39, while the third was at the Pedlar River crossing of FR 39.
The weather at Oronoco on the morning of 5-17-99 was cool and partly cloudy. Scarlet Tanagers and Red-eyed Vireos (Vireo olivaceus) called frequently in the vicinity of the campground. Also noted in the vicinity were White-flowered Leafcup (Polymnia canadensis), Nodding Fescue, Rattlesnake Fern, Carex amphibola in full bloom, the alien Bulbous Buttercup (Ranunculus bulbosa), Hooked Crowfoot (R. recurvatus), Spring Avens (Geum vernum) and Philadelphia Fleabane (Erigeron philadelphicus) . A little Medeola was seen under White Pine.
On entering the mature flood plain forest on the east side of the River,we noted a canopy dominated by large White Pine and Tuliptree, the call of an Ovenbird (Seiurus aurocapillus) and a substantial patch of Showy Orchid (Orchis spectabilis) in full bloom. Other woody species seen here were Northern Red Oak (some large), Muscletree and Witch Hazel. Also noted was a Pine Warbler (Dendroica pinus) . We soon came to a springbrook in a deep trench, perhaps an old stream channel. Here in the stream bed and/or on the adjacent bank were Golden Saxifrage, Lettuce Saxifrage, Intermediate Shield Fern, Pennsylvania Bitter Cress (Cardamine pensylvanica), Virginia Knotweed, Skunk Cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus), a clump of tall blooming Golden Ragwort (Senecio aureus), Wild Hydrangea, Carex laevivaginata, Plume Lily, Blue Monkshood (Aconitum uncinatum), Wood Nettle, Christmas Fern, Great Chickweed (Stellaria pubera) in bloom, Steel's Meadowrue (Thalictrum steeleanum), Miami Mist (Phacelia purshii), also in bloom, the mosses Rhynchostegium serrulatum on soil and rotting wood and Cirriphyllum boscii. Found in the vicinity were Carex amphibola, Kidney-leaf Crowfoot (Ranunculus abortivus), Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) in bloom, the toothwort Dentaria maxima (or Cardamine x maxima) and Spice Bush. Ovenbird, Crow and Red-shouldered Hawk (Buteo lineatus) were heard here. Also striking were three foot (1m), well-rounded boulders that appeared to be part of the stream's bedload and testimony of its power in flood.
Continuing upstream we encounteredCarex gracillima, Downy Many Knees (Polygonatum pubescens), here in a more shady environment than the Common species, then the greenbrier Smilax bona-nox, Maple-leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium), Flowering Dogwood, Carrion Flower and a lady beetle, red,without spots. Following these we saw Carex prasina, Oswego Tea (Monarda didyma) in an unfamiliar low elevation habitat, Tall Agrimony, Black Haw Viburnum, Four-leaved Yam, American Basswood in some abundance, White Ash, Virgin's Bower, Cleavers (Galium aperine), a lily (Lilium sp), Dutchman's Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria ) long past flowering, Bottlebrush Grass, Sycamore and a large White Pine. Here also was abundant Spreading Chervil (Chaerophyllum procumbens) in the dense shade of the forest floor, the call of an Ovenbird, Coralberry, Sugar Maple, Nodding Fescue, Wingstem, Potentilla simplex, Blood Root (Sanquinaria canadensis), Wild Ginger ( Asarum canadense), Atrichum moss and, in a more open area, a few of the aliens Japaese Honeysuckle, Multiflora Rose (Rosa multiflora) and Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata) .
Next seen was an association of Atrichum and Delicate Fern mosses, Medeola, Violet Wood Sorrel (Oxalis violacea) not here in bloom, and Red Maple seedlings,with nearby Deer-tongue Grass. Heard here also was a possible Solitary Vireo (Vireo solitarius) and another Ovenbird. These were followed by Carex laxiflora, C. laxiculmis, C. rosea, Wild Stonecrop (Sedum ternatum) in bloom, then Canada Brome Grass (Bromus pubescens or B. purgans), Indian Turnip, Virginia Strawberry, Wrinkle-leaf Goldenrod, an Atrichum moss, likely A. undulatum, Crooked-stem Aster and Carex stipata var stipata.. It should be mentioned that Scarlet Tanager calls were heard throughout the traverse.
The upland site four miles south of Oronoco, which was inventoried by us in the afternoon, lay perhaps 500 feet (150 m) in elevation above the River on a generally westerly aspect. Here we followed a woods road for a short distance down-slope. Bedrock here appeared to be a granitic, perhaps charnockitic gneiss, the soil and subsoil deep reddish clay. In places this soil bore a mor several inches thick.
The vegetation on this slope was broadly dry mesic in character, with a canopy consisting of Black, Northern Red, Chestnut and White Oaks, Tuliptree, White Pine, Black Birch, White Ash, Cucumbertree, Pignut Hickory (likely Carya glabra), Sassafras and severely Adelgid-infested Canada Hemlock. Understory included Flowering and Alternate-leaf Dogwoods and American Chestnut sprouts. Northern Red Oak seedlings were common. Shrubs noted were Witch Hazel, Maple-leaf Viburnum, Pennsylvania Blackberry (Rubus pensilvanicus ) and Upland Low Blueberry (Vaccinium pallidum) . Canopy trees ranged to over two feet (o.6 m) dbh and had good forms.
Herbs seen on a dry part of the slope were Rue Anemone (Anemonella thalictroides ), Dittany (Cunila origanoides), Panicled Hawkweed (Hieracium paniculatum), Curtis Goldenrod, Carex communis, C. digitalis, Downy Rattlesnake Plantain,Potentilla simplex, the woodrush Luzula multiflora, Sessile-leaved Bellwort (Uvularia sessilifolia) and Slender-leaved Summer Bluets (Houstonia tenuifolia) . Atrichum was a widespread moss on soil but Polytrichum was associated with Chestnut Oak and Upland Low Blueberry on mor. In a more mesic section we saw Hog Peanut, Cut-leaf Grape fern (Botrychium dissectum), Squaw Root (Conopholis americana), Christmas Fern, Hairy Disporum, Downy Heuchera (Heuchera pubescens), the wedge grass Sphenopholis intermedia and a little Columbine. Birds heard and/or seen were Ovenbird, Yellow-billed Cuckoo ( Coccyzus americanus), Pileated Woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus) and a very loud Carolina Wren (Thryothorus ludovicianus) .
At the Pedlar River crossing of FR 39 we first explored along a small branch under a canopy of Tuliptree, white Pine, Black Walnut, Black Birch, White Ash, Sycamore, Red Maple and a little Slippery Elm.Understory consisted of Muscletree and Paw Paw (Asimina triloba) and there was a shrub layer of Spice Bush, Witch Hazel and Wild Hydrangea, Japanese Honeysuckle was also present, while herbs noted were Wild Geranium, already gone to seed, Virginia Knotweed, Potentilla simplex, Horse Balm, the forest grass Brachyelytrum erectum, Small Yellow Crownbeard, Turtlehead, Black Cohosh, Panicum boscii, Carex scabrata and C. bromoides. A Scarlet Tanager was heard here.
We next did an inventory along the left bank of the Pedlar River just downstream from the FR 39 crossing. Our traverse here was within the ecotone between the dry, rocky upland forest and the sandy River strand. Thus there were unusual juxtapositions of species. The canopy here appeared to be dominated by Beech of generally healthy appearance which was mature but not large. Redbud (Circis canadensis) formed an understory. Successively noted as we proceded downstream from the road were Violet Wood Sorrel, here in bloom, Carex torta in the stream bed, and of greatest interest, abundant Yellowroot (Xanthorhiza simplicissima) just coming into bloom. Following these were found the wood rush Luzula echinata, Potentilla simplex, abundant Maple-leaf Viburnum, Wild Sage (Salvia lyrata), also in bloom, Smooth Alder, Muscletree, Spring Bluets (Houstonia caerulea) in bloom, Sweet Vernal Grass, more Yellowroot, the tall sedge Carex gynandra , Bottlebrush Grass, Black Haw Viburnum, Adelgid-infested Hemlock, Crested Dwarf Iris (Iris cristata), more Redbud and Beech.
After moving perhaps 1/6 mile (0.3 km) down the Pedlar's left bank, the stream was forded and a return made along the right bank. Species noted were Umbrellatree (Magnolia tripetala), Pinxter Azalea in bloom, Ox-eye (Heliopsis helianthoides), Winter Grape, Whorled Tickseed (Coreopsis verticillata ), Wood Tickseed (C. major), Winterberry Holly, Pasture Rose (Rosa carolina), Cranefly Orchid ( Tipularia discolor), Scarlet Oak, Fringe Tree, Gray Beardtongue (Penstemon canescens), Carex pensylvanica, Deerberry, Woodland Sunflower (Helianthus divaricatus) and Chinquapin (Castanea pumila) .
Our inventory of 5-28-99 began at 10:00 AM, with the weather clear, cool and pleasant, and was confined to the immediate vicinity of the Oronoco campground. Conspicuous on this day was the great number of swallowtail butterflies, including particularly the large Tiger (Papilio glaucus) . Also omnipresent were the Silver-spotted Skipper (Epargyreus clarus) in small numbers and the calls of Red-eyed Vireos. Close to the Pedlar River, on the campground's west side, we noted the abundance of Ash-leaf Maple seedlings and saplings, Spice Bush, seedlings of Red Maple, Coralberry, Poison Ivy, Virginia Creeper, Virginia Knotweed, Plume Lily and Rattlesnake Fern. Common Chickweed (Stellaria media) in places formed a prominent ground cover in deep shade, while Nodding Fescue was practically the only grass in this environment.
Seen along the stream edge was more over-sized, likely tetraploid, Common Many Knees and the alien herbs Celandine (Chelidanum majus) and Nipplewort ( Lapsana communis), while Miami Mist in full bloom formed large patches in openings there. Other species seen on this part of the flood plain included a ten inch (0.25 m) dbh Butternut, Wingstem, Virginia Strawberry, Common Speedwell (Veronica officinalis) in bloom, Clearweed, Deer-tongue Grass, Potentilla simplex, Japanese Honeysuckle and, in places, rampant English Ivy. Of interest also was a one-inch gray-brown bug with orange-tipped antennae in low vegetation and in deep shade. Along the road both Kentucky and Rough Bluegrass (Poa pratensis and P. trivialis) were common.
While 5-29-99 dawned bright and pleasant we were not greeted by the Wood Thrush (Hylocichla mustelina) we might have expected, nor had we heard any owls or Whip-poor Wills (Caprimulgus vociferus) during the night. Indeed, none of these birds was seen or heard on our entire visit. Our traverse this day was again through the rich flood plain southeast of the Pedlar River. Beginning in the vicinity of the campground and close to the River, we noted in succession the call of a Scarlet Tanager, Spring Avens, a Catbird (Dumetella carolinensis), a very little Spotted Wintergreen (Chimaphila maculata) in the only occurrence seen on the traverse, the grass Bromus latiglumis, Allegheny Blackberry, a wild rye (Elymus sp), Sensitive Fern, Wild Hydrangea, more wild rye, Slippery Elm, an Ovenbird,over-sized Common Many Knees; then on the River bank, Wood Nettle, Basil Balm, strikingly and beautifully striped Indian Turnip, and at the water's edge, Fowl Managrass (Glyceria striata) .
We now came to where a springbrook discharged into the River. Here we noted Carex lurida, Larger Water Starwort (Callitriche heterophylla), Ditch Stonecrop, Sweet Vernal Grass, the alien Broad-leaf Dock (Rumex obtusifolius ), a cress (Rorippa sp), Small-flowered St. Johns-wort, the rush Juncus effusus, Common Monkey-flower, Crayfish, a Newt, a Tree Frog and a heavy growth of Atrichum moss on the bank. Continuing up the springbrook we saw Clearweed, became aware of the granitic character of cobbles in the bed, Amblystegium moss on these wet cobbles and water penny beetles (Psephenidae) on their lower surfaces. Here also were the alien Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis), Northern Bugleweed and, on the bank, Wild Crabapple ( Malus coronaria) .
We then left the springbrook and entered the flood plain forest from the brook's right bank. Here the canopy was dominated by large White Pine and almost as large Tuliptree with smaller Sycamore, Red Maple, Shagbark Hickory, Cucumbertree and White Ash, with many seedlings of the latter. Muscletree formed an understory and Spice Bush and Black Haw Viburnum a shrub layer. Dominant herbs appeared to be Smooth Sweet Cicely and a meadowrue.
Continuing in the direction of the River again we encountered some small Beech, apparently healthy, but in one instance, partly girdled by Beaver. Noted in succession then were American Basswood, a single small Striped Maple, the call of an Ovenbird, Medeola, Virginia Waterleaf (Hydrophyllum virginianum ), a lily of unidentified species and quite abundant, although browsed off by Deer; then Nodding Fescue, Basil Balm and a 22 inch (0. 56 m) dbh Tuliptree with a 4 inch (10 cm) grape vine and a large Poison Ivy vine ascending it. These were followed by Cleavers, Honewort, Indian Turnip, Four-leaved Yam, Plume Lily, Maple-leaf Viburnum in bloom in deep shade, Common Chickweed, another Ovenbird call, abundant Spreading Chervil, Potentilla simplex, Poison Ivy, Carrion Flower, Coralberry and Tall Coneflower. Here we noted the apparent dominance of Delicate Fern Moss among the large conspicuous mosses on down wood, also the common occurrence of Rattlesnake Fern, here with Squaw Root, Bromus latiglumis, Black Cherry, small Sugar Maple and Ash-leaf Maple. Continuing, we heard a Tufted Titmouse (Parus bicolor) and a number of unidentified birds, saw a mint of the genus Stachys, White Baneberry, the Dryad Saddle fungus (Polyporus squamosus), a single plant of Adder's Tongue fern (Ophioglossum vulgatum var picnosticum), Black Elderberry and Virgin's Bower.
We now entered a semi-opening near the River, where we saw Blue Monkshood, Velvet Grass (Holcus lanatus), Carex bromoides, the blue-eyed grass Sisyrinchium angustifolium, Late Goldenrod (Solidago gigantea) and Winterberry Holly .We terminated our traverse here.
Summary
Considered together, the Oronoco Area, Statons Creek Falls vicinity and Cole Mountain are remarkable for the poverty of ericaceae, possibly a reflection of the widespread occurrence of the charnockite bedrock under the prevailing climate regime.With regard to climate, it is interesting that although the Pedlar Valley flat at Oronoco is similar in topographic location and elevation and as close to high ridges as is Horseshoe Run in West Virginia, the latter is markedly richer in cold climate species such as Yellow Birch, Striped Maple and Canada Mayflower (see our section on Horseshoe Run). Of course Horseshoe Run lies Approximately 100 miles (160 km) farther north. However the ridges here are higher than those, such as Backbone Mountain, that overlook Horseshoe Run . In contrast to Cole Mountain, which barely tolerates Yellow Birch and other northern species even on northern aspects, and which has a more typically Appalachian flora, Backbone Mountain is covered by northern hardwoods with a Red Spruce component at high elevations. It is likely that these differences are a consequence of the milder, less continental and montane regional climate of the Blue Ridge,as contrasted with the Alleghenies. As we have seen, the presence of cold climate species at the relatively modest elevation of Statons Creek Falls may be a result of the special influence of the Falls.
Reference
Rader, E. K. and N. H. Evans, editors, 1993, Geologic Map of Virginia- Expanded Explnation, Virginia Div. of Mineral Resources, Charlottesville, Va.
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