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General
Like the isolated peaks of the Southwestern United
States, Southwest Virginia’s Balsam Range is a high elevation refugium for
numerous plants and animals that range down from the boreal zone. But it is far more in that it also
incorporates an array of species peculiar to moderate to high elevations in the
southern Appalachians. The region,
which is in part included in the Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area, is dominated
by Mts. Rogers and Whitetop, which, at 5724 ft.(1745 meters) and 5560 ft. (1695
meters) respectively, are the highest peaks in the Central Appalachians. These two peaks are capped by coniferous
forests of Red Spruce and in the case of Mt. Rogers, also by Fraser Fir, a rare
southern Appalachian endemic. These
coniferous forests also share the mountain tops with “balds” or treeless areas
of uncertain origin which we refer to
as “meadows” here.
Beneath the Spruce-Fir forest is a zone of what —for
want of a better name— is referred to as “northern hardwoods” but which, as we
shall see, also contains a strong Appalachian element. Sensitive to aspect, this forest ranges down
to as far as 3400 ft. (1040 meters) asl on the north slope of Whitetop, to 4000
ft. (1220 meters) on the west slope and to only 4400 ft. (1340 meters) on the
south slope. Below this zone are
various Appalachian hardwoods varying from Oak-Hickory on dry sites to rich
mesic stands in coves and along streams.
The Balsam Range stands at the western edge of the
Blue Ridge, which forms a 60 mile wide plateau at this latitude. The Range is part of a disinterred
Precambrian volcanic complex which includes the Mt. Rogers Formation. Part of this formation is the Whitetop
Rhyolite member, as well as ancient glacial deposits (tillite). Immediately to the northwest lie rocks of
the PreCambrian/Cambrian transition, the Unicoi Formation, which contains the
oldest strata of the Valley and Ridge province. The Unicoi is comprised of sandstones, quartzites and tuffaceous
phyllite, the latter also a product of vulcanism. The forests of the region should be considered in relation to
these rock types.
Here we present a species profile of the region
ranging from a mid-elevation riparian zone along Comers Creek to the highest
elevations of Whitetop. The first phase
of our study begins in the Valley and Ridge at the popular Hurricane Campground
and at 2800 ft. (850 meters) asl and extends to Comers Creek Falls along the
Dickey Gap Trail. The second phase is a traverse that begins
at 4400 ft. asl (1340 meters) asl at Elk Garden and extends along the
Appalachian Trail to the Whitetop summit.
Hurricane Campground to Comers Creek
Falls
The forest at the Campground is secondary, mature and
a superb introduction to Southern Appalachian diversity. In a sense it is characteristic of many
Valley and Ridge riparian forests throughout the Central Appalachians in that
it is developed on siliceous rocks and resulting acidic soils. At the same time the acid reaction of the
soils is moderated by the activities of earthworms and other soil organisms
which find the mesic conditions salubrious.
Canopy tree species, some of which are several feet ( 0.6 meter ) dbh, include Northern Red Oak,
White Pine, Tuliptree, Canada Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), White Oak, Red and
Sugar Maples, Black Cherry, Black and Yellow Birches, Cucumber and Fraser
Magnolias, Black Locust, American Basswood, Beech and American Chestnut (Castnea dentata) sprouts. Serviceberry ( species undetermined ),
Sourwood, Sassafras and Hawthorn (species undetermined!) form an understory
with such familiar shrubs as Great Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum),
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana),
Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia), Blackberries (Rubus
sp ), Spice Bush (Lindera benzoin
), Black Elderberry (Sambucus
canadensis) and Black Haw Viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium). Less familiar shrubs are Sweet Pepperbush (Clethra acuminata) and misnamed
American Strawberry Bush (Euonymus americanus) with its conspicuously
4-sided stem.
The presence of the stream valley-side seeps and the
varying environment beneath different tree species creates a complex and
diverse pattern of microhabitats here.
This habitat diversity in turn results in a rich and varied herb
flora. The acid needle duff and leaves
beneath Hemlock and Oaks encourage mosses, Partridge Berry (Mitchella
repens), Spotted Wintergreen (
Chimaphila maculata), Round-leaf
Violet (Viola rotundifolia), Canada Mayflower (Maianthemum canadense),
and in some places, decorative clumps of the southern mountain endemic, Galax (Galax
aphylla). In less acidic
sites, usually in less shaded and dryer areas, occur White Wood Aster (Aster divaricatus) in great abundance, as well as Purple-stemmed
Aster (A. puniceous), Big -leaf Aster (A. Macrophyllus), Plume
Lily (Smilacina racemosa), Upright Yellow Wood Sorrel (Oxalis stricta ), Hooked Crowfoot (Ranunculus recurvatus),
Four-leaved Yam (Dioscorea quaternata), Indian Pipe (Monotropa uniflora), Virginia
Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana),
Poke (Phytolacca americana), May Apple (Podophyllum
peltatum), Common Speedwell (Veronica officinalis), Fringed Loosestrife (Lysimachia
ciliata), Large Summer Bluets (Houstonia purpurea) and the luxuriant variety of
Cow Wheat (Melampyrum lineæ
var. latifolia).
Grasses in dry areas were represented by Hairy Panic
Grass (Panicum lanuginosum) and
Nimblewill (Muhlenbergia schreberi) and ferns by Christmas Fern
(Polystichum acrostichoides), New York Fern (Thelypteris noveboracencis),
Marginal Shield Fern (Dryopteris marginalis) and Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda
cinnamomea).
Where moisture is more abundant, Clearweed (Pilea
pumila), Jewelweed (Impatiens sp.), and an impressive array of sedges were found. The latter include the acidiphile Carex
intumescens, with C. baileyi, C. stipata, C.
prasina, C. gracillima and C. scoparia. These were also joined by the moisture-loving manna grasses Glycerra
striata and G.
melicaria, favorites of waterfowl.
Where there is shallow flowing water we found Golden
Saxifrage (Chrysosplenium americanum) and the Mountain Watercress
(Cardamine rotundifolia) with its conspicuous round leaves on sprawling
stems.
At this elevation vines are still common, including
particularly Poison Ivy (Rhus radicans), Common Greenbrier (Smilax
rotundifolia) and Summer
Grape (Vitis æstivalis).
The moist soil and seeps are also home to large land
snails and, as inferred from numerous castings, crayfish as well. Also, as in many locations in these
mountains, Barred Owls (Strix varia)
enliven the nights here.
The forest upstream, along the valley bottom on the
Dickey Gap trail, is only a little higher in elevation than at the campground
and is very similar. In this reach the
first White Ash was seen but it is probably present at Hurricane as well. Pignut Hickory seedlings were present in
small numbers and Maple-leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium) and Buffalonut (Pyrularia
pubera), the latter another Appalachian endemic, were added to our
list of shrubs. As is the case with
many Appalachian species, the closest relative of Pyrularia pubera is found only in east Asia.
Surprisingly, a small amount of Southern Mountain
Cranberry (Vaccinium erythrocarpum), usually a shrub of high
elevations, occurs here too. Also found
along this valley flat are such northern herbs as Large Round Leaf Orchid (Habenaria
orbiculata) and Painted
Trillium (Trillium undulatum), perhaps indicating cold
air drainage and accumulation from the heights above. However the herb flora here, as at Hurricane Campground, is
dominantly low to moderate elevation in character. Additional species tallied are Narrow-leaved Sundrop (Oenothera
fruticosa), Calico Aster (Aster lateriflorus), Hay- scented Fern (Dennstædtia
punctilobula), the root parasite Squawroot (Conopholis americana),
Moccasin Flower (Cypripedium acaule) and Downey Rattlesnake Plantain
(Goodyera pubescens), the last two probably the most common orchids in
these mountains. A little farther on we
added Hairy Skullcap (Scutellaria elliptica), Mountain Meadowrue (Thalictium
clavatum), Turtlehead (Chelone glabra), Palmate-leaf Violet (Viola
palmata) and Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera). Then, indicating a patch of superior soil richness, we saw
Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum), Hog Peanut (Amphicarpa
bracteata), Great Chickweed
(Stellaria pubera), Mealy Bellwort (Uvularia
perfoliata) and Golden
Alexanders (Zizia sp.).
In this relatively dry forest one of the few sedges was Carex
digitalis.
There are however a number of springs and seeps that
feed into the main stream. It is in
these that is found what is perhaps the most spectacular floral display of this
traverse, the misleadingly named “Small Purple Fringed Orchid” (Habenaria
psycodes ). Now in full bloom, this brilliant
orchid may exceed a meter in height in
its variety grandifolia.
Although somewhat neglected by us amidst the
spectacle of flowering plants, fungi also demand our attention. These include the neat little Marasmius species with flexible stems, colorful coral fungi (Ramaria
sp.), Tremellodendron sp., Polyporus
elegans, Hygrophorus marginata and a number of Russulas
including R. xerampelina. Here
again we also saw the imposing land snails, approximately 1.5 inches ( 3.8 cm )
in largest dimension.
At this point in our traverse we
begin to climb up the edge of the steep-sided ravine in which the stream reaches
south up the mountain. Along the trail
we encountered the sedge Carex laxiflora with its clump of supine culms, the Wood Rush Luzula
acuminata, Wreath Goldenrod (Solidago cæsia) and stunted May Apple (Podophyllum
peltatum). Then in a shrubby
overhang, a sharp eye spoted the Smalls Kidney-leaved Tway Blade Orchid (Listera
smallii). A little farther
on, at about 2900 ft. (880 meters) asl, the slope is covered by a magnificent
Tuliptree forest, perhaps 30 to 60 years in age, its vigorous light gray boles
thriving in the rich moisture of this northern aspect. In the shade along the trail grew
Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana), the northern “Joe-pye” Eupatorium
maculatum and Wood Anemone (Anemone
quinquefolia). Beyond, the trees
show more diversity, and equal vigor, Tuliptree being joined by Sugar Maple,
Cucumber and Fraser Magnolias, Northern Red Oak, Black Birch, Small Hemlock and
Striped Maple, but no White Oak as on the flat below. Here again, in dense shrubbery along a strong spring, we saw more
Habenaria psycodes, also in full bloom, and so tall, at more than a
meter, as to possibly qualify as the variety grandifolia ( Gleason, 1952).
Continuing to climb we entered
an area of somewhat more acid soils, as signified by patches of Cladonia, Spotted Wintergreen, Mtn.
Laurel, a little Southern Mountain Cranberry, mosses and White Clintonia (Clintonia umbellulata). Here also there are Sourwood trees nine
inches (23 cm) in diameter, as well as Carolina Lily (Lilium michauxii). Although not in bloom, the latter was
identifiable by its distinctive leaf shapes.
Except for the addition of Red Maple, trees of the slope here are the
same as those listed above, but are accompanied by Great Rhododendron. Here also Mountain Oat Grass(Danthonia compressa) is abundant along
the trail.
As below, the trail passes
through alternating patches of acid and less acid soils. Now the latter is indicated by Broad Beech
Fern (Phegopteris hexagonoptera),
which yields to Minnie-bush and Black Gum;
these again to lush Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa) and Black Snakeroot (Sanicula
canadensis), and finally to closely juxtaposed Rattlesnake
Weed (Hieracium venosum), Mountain Bellwort (Uvularia
pudica), Golden Alexanders and Summer Grape. As below also, this slope has a remnant of
American Chestnut sprouts and, unexpectedly, a few large Flowering Dogwood (Cornus
florida), long dead, perhaps of Anthracnose. Farther on there was Indian Tobacco (Lobelia
inflata), Purple Bedstraw (Galium latifolium), Carex laxiflora and high climbing Dutchmans Pipe Vine (Aristolochia macrophylla). These
were followed by Putty Root Orchid (Aplectrum hyemale), already gone to seed, Large
Bellflower (Campanula americana), yet to bloom, one of several
plants called “fireweed,” (Erechtites hieracifolia), and Smooth Rock Cress (Arabis
lævigata).
As we neared the falls the slope
became seepy, steep and rocky. Here we
found the sedge Carex virescens, which according to
Strausbaugh and Core ( 1978 ), usually grows on “rocky banks or steep slopes.”
Also compatible with this environment was Flowering Raspberry (Rubus
odoratus) in such vigorous growth as to be scarcely recognizable,
Leatherleaf Meadowrue (Thalictrum coriaceum), Enchanter’s Nightshade (Circæa
quadrisulcata), Rattlesnake Fern (Botrychium virginianum),
Black Cohosh and Pennyroyal (Hedeoma pulegioides).
At this elevation of near 3300
ft. (1000 meters) asl we encountered
the first Yellow Birch and Canada Mayflower since the valley flat, probably in
response to elevation this time.
Accompanying these were the other cool climate species, American
Basswood, Prickly Gooseberry (Ribes
cynosbati), Canada Violet (Viola canadensis), Wake Robin (Trillium
erectum) and Thornless Blackberry (Rubus canadensis). Other
more widespread species were the vine Virgins Bower (Clematis virginiana),
Wrinkled-leaf Goldenrod (Solidago rugosa), and the canopy trees Sugar
Maple, Black Cherry, Northern Red Oak, Black Birch and Black Locust.
In this traverse the effect of
elevation on species distribution had been slight and somewhat countered by
cold air drainage. However in the
following traverse up Whitetop this effect will be found to be far more pronounced
and at high elevation dominates all others.
Elk Garden to Whitetop Summit
Source Walk: 6-17-95, Clear, Pleasant
From the 4400 ft. (1340 meters) pass on State Route
600 at Elk Garden, the rounded summit of Mt. Rogers is visible three miles to
the northeast. Much of the land in that
direction is treeless, degraded by years of human abuse. Happily the land is healing now because it
lies in the federally designated Lewis Fork Wilderness. In the other direction lies Whitetop, hidden
behind the magical forest we will climb through, but still unprotected except
by U.S. Forest Service regulation.
Unfortunately a road still runs to the Whitetop Summit, which is also
burdened by electronic communication facilities. Yet, abused as it is, this mountain is still the site of
unsurpassed biodiversity in the Central Appalachians. To experience this we will follow the Appalachian Trail most of
the way.
According to the biological inventories, sixteen
species of salamanders are present in the Whitetop area, and these include the
Pigmy (Desmognathus wrighti), Weller’s (Plethodon welleri), and the Yonahlossee
(Plethodon yonahlossee) all southern
Appalachian endemics with very restricted ranges. The upper slopes of Whitetop and Mt. Rogers are also home to
summer resident rare and disjunct birds including such northerners as the
Sawwhet Owl (Ægolius acadicus), Hermit Thrush (Catharus
guttatus). Magnolia Warbler
(Dendroica magnolia),
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher (Empidomax flaviventris), Golden-crowned Kinglet (Regulus
satrapa), Yellow-bellied Sapsucker (Sphrapicus various), Red
Crossbill, (Loxia curvirostrata
) Purple Finch (Carpodacus
purpureus) and Winter Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes). Although none of these were encountered on this traverse,
additional high elevation species will be noted as heard or seen.
At Elk Garden the traverse began on an essentially
southeastern aspect which was maintained for most of the climb. The canopy at Elk Garden is dominated by
Beech, Sugar Maple, White Ash, Northern Red Oak and Yellow Buckeye, with an
understory and shrub layer of Hawthorn (
Crataegus sp ), Striped Maple,
Alternate-leaf Dogwood and various species of Blackberries. The herbaceous component is extraordinarily
lush and vigorous. Prominent are
Honewort (Cryptotænia canadensis), Filmy Angelica (Angelica
triquinata), Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum), Virginia Knotweed (Polygonum
virginianum), Wood Nettle (Laportea canadensis), Downy Wood Violet (Viola
sororia), White Wood Aster (Aster divaricatus), Smooth Sweet Cicely (Osmorhiza
longistylis), Plume Lily (Smilacina racemosa), Tasslerue (Trautvetteria caroliniensis), Carrion Flower (Smilax herbacea),
Small-flowered Phacelia (Phacelia dubia), Jack in the Pulpit (Arisæma
triphyllum), May Apple, Foam Flower (Tiarella cordifolia), an
unidentified species of Cimicifuga,
Avens (Geum sp ), Agrimony (Agrimonia sp ) and Jewelweed (Impatiens
sp ). Grasses included Nodding Fescue (Festuca obtusa), Bottle
Brush Grass (Hystrix patula) and a forest“blue grass "(Poa
alsodes), while sedges are represented by Carex intumescens and C. laxiflora, among others, and ferns by
Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina), Silvery Athyrium (A. thelypterioides), Goldie's Shield
Fern (Dryopteris goldiana) and Intermediate Shield Fern
(D. intermedia). Most of these herbs are also common at lower
elevations and of wide or southern distribution. However, accompanying them are some northerners such as Canada
Mayflower.
As we began our climb in earnest we encountered
increasing numbers of northern and high elevation Appalachian species. Already at the start we heard the
distinctive song of the Veery (Catharus fuscescens) and in quick succession saw
Mountain Aster, Hobble Bush (Viburnum
alnifolium) and clinging to jagged rhyolite, Twisted Stalk (Streptopus roseus). Accompanying these, in addition to some of
the wide ranging species previously listed,were such lovers of cool to moderate
climate as Blue Cohosh (Caulophyllum thalictroides), Hispid Buttercup (Ranunculus
hispidus) and Wood Anemone (Anemone quinquefolia). The next Sub-Arctic ranging species
encountered are Alpine Enchanter’s Nightshade (Circæa alpina ) and the somewhat rare Mountain Wood Fern (Dryopteris
campyloptera) with its distinctive elongated lower pinules. However with these was the more southerly
and widely distributed Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides).
A little higher up we saw a plant that stands out
among all others. With its only
congener in Japan, the Umbrella Leaf (Diphylleia cymosa) has been found no further north
than this range, although it thrives at these high elevations. Its leaves, more than a foot across, and its
elevated cymes, already in fruit, made it easy to identify even from a distance.
Despite our metaphorical “high” of Umbrella Leaf we
still found excitement a little farther on in the first appearance of Red
Elderberry (Sambucus pubens), here with Spineless Blackberry
(Rubus
canadensis), which we first saw far below on the Dickey Gap trail,
but which is a familiar at higher elevations throughout the Central
Appalachians. With these we also found
Hairy Disporum (Disporum lanuginosum), a widespread member of
the lily family, which can be confused with Twisted Stalk but for its terminal
flower.
As we climbed beyond 4800 ft (1460 meters) our tally
of species continued to grow. Some,
like Wreath Goldenrod, Golden Ragwort (Senecio
aureus ), Turtlehead (Chelone glabra), Virginia Waterleaf (Hydrophyllum virginianum) and Great
Rhododendron are widespread at lower elevations, whereas others such as Oswego
Tea (Monarda didyma) and White Hellebore (Veratrum viride) clearly prefer the heights. Still others, including Shining Clubmoss (Lycopodium
lucidulum) and Downy Solomons Seal or " Many Knees"(Polygonatum
pubescens), are northern in distribution,but frequently descend to
quite low elevations.
As is already apparent in the previous
listings,diverse microhabitats are closely juxtaposed on these slopes. We now
entered a region of seeps trickling among large blocks of rhyolite where
Pennsylvania Bittercress (Cardamine pensylvanica), Thyme-leaved Bluets (Houstonia
serpyllifolia) and Lettuce Saxifrage (Saxifraga micranthidifolia)
proliferated. Nearby we saw the first
Yellow Birch, Mountain Maple (Acer spicatum) and Mountain Holly (Ilex
montana), all indicators of increasing elevation. These were accompanied by the wide-ranging
Virginia Knotweed and Great Indian
Plantain (Cacalia muehlenbergii) of
lower elevations, although not common there.
And sequestered among the rocks were the residual seed stalks of that
mountain gastronomic favorite, the Ramp (Allium
tricoccum), in early spring one of the most beautiful wild onions.
A non-exhaustive list of other species found at this
elevation includes Round-leaf Violet, Hooked Crowfoot (Ranunculus recurvatus),
Turks Cap Lily (Lilium superbum),
Beech Drops (Epifagus virginiana), Horse Balm (Collinsonia
canadensis), Thin-leaved Sunflower (Helianthus decapetalus),
Tall Coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata), Mountain Meadowrue (Thalictrium
clavatum), Starry Campion (Silene stellata), Broad-leaf Goldenrod (Solidago
flexicaulis), Hay-scented Fern, the Wood Rush Luzula acuminata, the Trail
Rush (Juncus tenuis) and the first American Basswood seen on these
heights. Sedges also were plentiful,
being represented by Carex æstivalis, C. bromoides, C. digitalis, C. stipata, C.
pensylvanica, C. gracillima and almost omnipresent C. intumescens. Characteristically and significantly, there were few vine plants
present at this elevation. An exception
is Dutchman's Pipe Vine.
Some may wonder why I present these seemingly endless
lists of plant species when smaller ones might sufficiently characterize the
forest. Yet every species is at least
potentially important, as are their associations and relations to habitat, if
we wish even to begin to understand this forest. As it is, even these listings are woefully incomplete, and
critical species may at times be missed.
Another reason for attention to detail is the special nature of the
Whitetop area in that it can conveniently serve as an introduction to many
species, their associations and habitats.
These relations may then serve as bases of comparison with less diverse
areas and with communities in other geologic and climatic circumstances. Thus the object is to gather information of
usefulness that transcends even this special location and which can help us
understand the entire Central Appalachians ( no pomposity intended! )
Not far above the lush mesic slope just traversed, we
came upon the first Red Spruce, although it is still part of a dominantly Sugar
Maple forest. Here, in a more acid
environment than below, grew lush Round-leaf Violets and Yellow Clintonia (Clintonia borealis), the latter also a
good indicator of elevation. Associated with these were the not-so-common
White Baneberry (Actæa pachypoda)
and the more common Lance-leaved Wild Liquorice (Galium lanceolatum). As we
ascended higher, Spruce increased in frequency and acid conditions intensified,
although the canopy was still essentially Beech-Maple. Ground cover consisted of the acid -soil
Southern Mountain Cranberry, Partridge Berry, very abundant Canada Mayflower,
Spinulose Shield Ferns and the first few Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana) seedlings.
The latter tree is rarely found below 3500 ft. (1070 meters) in the
Central Appalachians, one of the few exceptions being certain cold bogs such as
Cranesville Swamp at 2500 ft. (760 meters) asl on the West Virginia-Maryland
line (see our section on this wetland).
Here in the Southern borderland it is doubtless constrained to higher
elevations, although the southeast aspect may force it upward even more here. Also fitting into this picture is Skunk
Current (Ribes glandulosum), a
species of “swamps and wet woods” that ranges up to Labrador and which appeared
first at this elevation. Other
characteristic species were Mountain Aster, Yellow Birch, New York Fern and
Painted Trillium. Also present was
Minnie-bush (Menzisia pilosa), a southern Appalachian heath
that ranges from low to high elevations and frequently mingles with boreal
species on acid soils.
Quite generally Hobble Bush, Yellow Birch and
Mountain Ash increased markedly with elevation now, and Red Maple became more
abundant as a response to the increasingly acid conditions. At about 5100 ft. (1550 meters) asl Mountain
Oxalis and Canada Mayflower were still in bloom among lush patches of Shining
Club Moss. Interestingly, these boreal
species were accompanied by Hairy Disporum (Disporum lanuginosum ), Carrion Flower (Smilax
herbacea), Four-leaved Yam, May Apple and Yellow Buckeye, none of
which range far north.
Birdlife at these elevations has a decidedly northern
cast. In addition to the Veeries already
noted, the presence of numerous Slate-colored Juncos (Junco hyemalis ) was more obvious than usual because of
their attempts to distract us from
their nests. Later in the summit meadow
we would blunder on a clutch of their eggs under a bank overhang. Somewhat more advanced in the breeding cycle
were a flock of young Ruffed Grouse (Bonasa
umbellus) that we flushed in the high spruce-hardwood forest.
After virtually following a contour of 5200 ft. (1580
meters) we entered the meadow which, except for the highest point, occupies the
summit slopes on the south and southwest sides of this peak. Near the eastern edge of this meadow the
ill-starred road runs to the top.
The most striking sight on the meadow at this season
is the multitude of white blossoms of Three-toothed Cinquefoil (Potentilla
tridentata), a member of the rose family that ranges into the
Arctic and occupies only a few exposed peaks in the Appalachian chain. Liberally sprinkled among these rare plants
are the yellow blossoms of the small Common Cinquefoil, or Creeping Five-leaf
(either P. canadensis or P.
simplex) and a squat form of the low to moderate elevation Wavy-leaf Aster
(A. undulatus). One of the few other plants seen here with
distinctly northern range is Hispid Goldenrod (Solidago hispida), while most others have temperate or southern
ranges. These include an unusual
variety of Whorled Loosestrife with bright orange-tinted foliage, Virginia Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana ),Smooth Aster (Aster lævis), Small's
Ragwort (Senecio smallii), Early Goldenrod (S.
juncea), Arrow Leaf Violet (Viola sagittata), the wood rushes Luzula
echinata and L.
multiflora, the sedges Carex
tenera and C. normalis and the grass
Red Fescue (Festuca rubra). In one place the rare Appalachian endemic,
Gray’s Lily, (Lilium grayi) stood
out flamboyantly red in full bloom above shorter herbs. Startled nearby, while basking in the warm
sun, several small Garter Snakes (Thamnophis sp.) slithered away. A Natural Heritage
publication ( Erdle et al, 1996 ) lists a number of other species of the
meadow.
Woody vegetation in the meadow is kept suppressed by
the Forest Service through the use of fire.
However there are scattered trees, mostly wind distorted hawthorns, but
also Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana)
and along the eastern edge dense thickets of shrubby Beech. On the NE slope, ranging to the summit
proper, lies the closed canopy Red Spruce forest. Along the road which penetrates this forest, as well as on the
forest-meadow edge, there are dense stands of Blackberries. Along the road, and also within the forest,
Red Elderberry and Mountain Ash are common and an abundant roadside herb is
Golden Ragwort. The Red Elderberry may
be encouraged by lime in the road gravel.
Few other plants occur within the spruce forest. At the highest elevations there are Yellow
Birch and Mountain Ash with a ground cover of mosses, the liverwortBazzania trilobata and Spinulose Shield Ferns, including
Mountain Woodfern. Lower down the
forest is more open with largely fern ground cover. A species missed by us is Long-stemmed Holly (Ilex collina) for which this mountain
is the type locality. Ogle(1992)
however described both male and female plants of this shrub from
hardwood-spruce forest with SW aspect at 5100 ft. (1550 meters) elevation.
General features of the Spruce zone
flora have been discussed by Rheinhardt and Ware ( 1984 ), however they do not
provide site-specific data.
Several trends are detectable in the ascent from the
Hurricane Campground to the Whitetop Summit.
1. There are marked elevational effects in the apparent sequence of
species and this sequence generally conforms to that found in other parts of
the Central Appalachians.
2. A considerable number of species that are restricted to moderate
and southern latitudes also occur at high elevations in association with
species ranging to high latitudes. This
is especially marked in the Whitetop meadow but also occurs in the northern
hardwood forest.
3. Apparent diversity, as indicated by observed numbers of species,
falls off slowly with elevation until about 5200 (1580 meters) asl within the
northern hardwood-spruce zone and falls dramatically in the summit spruce
forest.
4. In some cases the effect of cold air drainage into the relatively
low stream bottoms duplicates the effect of high elevations ( the mirror effect
). Thus certain northern species such
as Yellow Birch and Canada Mayflower, as well as the high elevation Appalachian
Southern Mountain Cranberry, occur at 2800 ft. (850 meters) asl in the Comers
Creek Valley and reappear again at high elevations. The limitation of Tuliptree, Summer Grape and many herbs to
relatively low elevations and the restriction of such species as Mountain Ash
to high elevations and cool valley flats is an
effect mainly attributable to temperature. However other species such as Northern Red Oak, Sugar Maple and
certain herbs drop out at the highest elevations, probably not because of
temperature limitations, but because they are not stable or are outcompeted by
species such as spruce and fir in the more acidic, nutrient - poor soils. More precisely, conditions on the Whitetop
summit are such that the acid soil-favored, shade-prevalent spruce-fir forest
is selected for and Northern Red Oak, Sugar Maple, etc. cannot exist in this
environment although they might, in the absence of spruce-fir and/or better
soils, thrive ( stability relations, Mueller, 1998 ). This effect is even more clearly shown in the Whitetop meadow in
which bright sunlight and drying winds
counter temperature. It is possible however that some or all of
the normally low elevation/low latitude herbs on the Whitetop summit, both in
the meadow and forest, may be represented by elevation-adapted varieties. The colorfully-foliaged Whorled Loosestrife
on the meadow may be an example. By
contrast the Arctic-alpine Three-toothed Cinquefoil, which mingles with low
elevation herbs on the meadow, is, as indicated by its thick evergreen leaves,
adapted to both cold and drying. The
presence of this herb also indicates that despite the present
artificially-sustained character of the meadow,there was probably originally
some type of opening on this summit.
References
Erdle. Sandra Y., Lawrence R.
Smith and Dustin K. Howarth, 1996, Special
Biological Areas on the Jefferson National Forest, Natural Heritage Tech.
Rep. 96 - 14, Va. Dept. of Conservation and Recreation, Richmond, Va., 270 pp
plus appendicies.
Gleason, Henry A., 1952, The New Britton and Brown Illustrated Flora
of the Northeastern United States and Adjacent Canada, Macmillan Pub.
Co.,N. Y.
Mueller, R. F. 1998, Exploring Natures Multidimensional Space,
The Forest Example, Forests of the Central Appalachians Project, Virginians
for Wilderness Website
Ogle,Douglas W.,1992, Notes on
the Type Locality and Ecology of Ilex
collina Alexander ( Aquifoliaceae ),
Castanea 57 ( 3 ), 213 - 215.
Rheinhardt, R. D. and S. A.
Ware. 1984. The Vegetation of the Balsam Mountains of Southwest Virginia: a
Phytosociological Study. Bull. of the
Torrey Botanical Soc. 111 ( 3 ) 285 - 3000.
Strausbaugh, P. D. and E. L.
Core,1978, Flora of West Virginia,
Second Edition, Seneca Books,
Grantsville, W. Va.
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Sky Island Borderlands, Transition to the Southern Appalachians
January, 2000
Source Walks: 6-16-95 and 6-18-95, Clear, Pleasant